Nose down arrow flight

[SirRobin77]

Ok i went to a friends house yesterday so i could stretch out a little with my bow and at 20 yds and over the arrow seems to fly with the nose down a bit then it straightens up when it hits the target.Is this normal for woodies? Im shooting a total weight of ( with broadhead)550 grn sitka spruce arrow with Zwickey eskimo broadhead 125 grn.Im shhooting a bear recurve that is 61lbs at 30"  which is my draw length,its 45lbs at 28".Is my nock set wrong? I have it set 1/2 " above the shelf.
Matt

[BOHO]

I might be a little rusty on this but I think that 1/2" above 90 degrees is a starting point. Some bows might shoot best at almost 90 degrees and other almost 3/4 above 90. I would play with it a little if it was me. I would try lowering it a bit and see if that helps. If not, try raising it. Also I use dental floss for my nocks and I generally put 2 on the string and nock between them. Don't put them so close together that it impedes arrow flight but it will help keep the arrow straight in flight. I think they are about 1/2 apart.

[Jeremy]

45 @28 and 61 @30??!!! huh??  I've never shot a KMag that stacked that bad at my 30" draw.

Could be a few things.
1. Your nock could be too low.  I've had bows that needed 3/8" and bows that needed 3/4".  Try lowering it and see if it gets worse.

2.  Nock could be too high giving a false low-nock indicator... not likely at 1/2" from 90 though.

3.  How tight are the arrow nocks on the string?  It's pretty easy to torque the string slightly on release and slide the nock down on the string.  That will give you a nock-low indication in flight.  Tie some dental floss below the first nock to fix.

Keep in mind that broadheads magnify tuning and form issues.

Where do broadhead tipped arrows group in relation to arrows with fieldpoints?

[SirRobin77]

Yes 61 lbs at 30" i had it check at a local archery shop the other day. Feels great to me i love it!!
Matt

[Jeremy]

You sure they measured 30" to to back of the bow?  That # is more in line with measuring to the grip (which would actually be a 31.75" draw).  The last KMag I put on a scale gained 4# going from 29 to 30"... 16# over 2" is like hitting a wall.

[SirRobin77]

They measured 30" to nearly mid way of the shelf. They checked the poundage twice.

[Jeremy]

That's measuring to about the throat of the grip.  Draw length is meaured to the back of the bow - actually to the throat plus 1.75", but the back of the bow is pretty close.  Your bow is 61# @31.75"     Makes much more sense to me now  :D

[blueline]

I think they measured 30" of string travel to get 61# you should be more like 51# IMO.. to answer your ?? Doy you knoc over or under the the nock???  I start at 5/8 above and work down until I get the best groups, I nock under the nock by the way and shoot split finger.
blueline

[SirRobin77]

Hey Blue
 I nock under and i shoot split finger also.
Ok what is my draw length?
Matt

[Jeremy]

My money is still on a low nock     If you try nocking slightly lower it should get worse.  If it does, remove your nockset and start tuning it again with broadheads and fieldpoints

[Jeremy]

Replied to your PM

[Widowbender]

This is from the AMO Standards Committee Field Publication FP-3 2000, prepared by Norb Mullaney, Chairman:

"AMO DRAW LENGTH STANDARD
For Manufacturers
Draw length is a specified distance, or the distance at the archer’s full draw, from
the nocking point on the string to the pivot point of the bow grip (or the theoretical
vertical projection of a tangency line to the pivot point parallel to the string)
plus 1 3/4”. Draw length from pivot point shall be designed at DLPP and shall be
called TRUE DRAW LENGTH.
EXAMPLE: 26 1/4” DLPP plus 1 3/4” is the equivalent of 28” draw.
For Dealers and General Use
For practical reasons not requiring precise terms, draw length is the distance, at
the archer’s full draw, from the nocking point on the string to the back of the bow
at the arrow rest.
EXPLANATION: The standard Manufacturers is consistent with the Bow
Weight Standard as related to the pivot point. The DLPP plus 1 3/4” is compatible
to previous concepts of draw length. (See handle illustration.) Draw length
for Dealers and General Use relieves the burden of preciseness not required for
general use and facilitates determining arrow length. THIS STANDARD SUPERSEDES
THE PREVIOUS STANDARD.
AMO"


The pivot point is what most folk call the throat of the grip, which is the low point of the grip. The standard allows for measurement from the nock point at full draw to the back of the bow. I assume they have an arrow with a ruler index on it that you can draw in the bow and determine what the length is at the back of the bow or you can draw your arrow and have someone mark it and then measure the length from the throat of the nock to the mark.

David

[Orion]

Isn't a K-mag a 52-inch bow?  If you're drawing it to nearly 32 inches the string angle has to be extremely acute.  I don't know how you can get your fingers off the string cleanly.  The string hanging up on one or more of your fingers can also do funny things to the arrow.

[JimB]

I was thinking the same thing.I pull 27" and those the K Mags are still tough to shoot well.I do a lot better with 56"-58" bows.I'd bet a 60-62" bow would have you shooting noticably better than with the K Mag.

[SirRobin77]

Hey Jim
The arrows are going where i want them to for the most part im still a rookie but im lethal at 10yds lol 90% at 15 yds 20yds is still iffy.
  Its just when i would shoot the arrows the nose would be pointed down when i flight,
I did move the nock from 1/2 to 3/4 and that seemed to help.
Matt

[Jeremy]

1/4" move in nock location is HUGE.  You really want to walk the nock up slowly until you find the best flight, then keep going to watch it get worse     A bow with an nock that's too high can give just as bad of flight as a nock that's too low.
With a 30" draw and that short of a bow it'd be real easy inadvertently slide the arrow nock down the string on release.

[SirRobin77]

Ok thanks

[BRITTMAN]

SirRobin ,
I bet your nock point is a little high . The reason I say that is I shoot 3 under and 3/4 is about where I shoot . Most of the time 3 under requires a higher nock point than split . From what I see most people that shoot split have a 1/8 to 1/4 nock placement . What I would do if I were tuning that bow would be to place a nock under the one you have on the bow .If I saw improvements but still have nose down arrow flight I would put another below that one untill I found the right spot , then take off the other nocks and your done . If things go wrong go the other way but only one nock set length at the time . BTW dont worry about your bow being to short if its shooting good to you , just keep shooting and have fun . You'll have plenty of time for trading very soon . Its a aditive sport (LOL)

Mike