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Carbons and Bare Shafting #@%$** $@#%%

Started by Gator1, September 23, 2008, 04:06:00 PM

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Gator1

o.k.

I have read almost every post I can on Bare Shafting, and it is driving me away from Carbons...

here goes: Need Help:

New Treadway, cut to center..  Began bareshafting, and with GT 35/55's at 29 3/4"s BOP, with the weight up front I want to shot, I'm about 3" Nock Left Weak.... I'm considering taking off another 1/4" to 29 1/2"  I can shoot these shafts fletch, 5" LW Shields in lengths from 29 1/2 to 31"'s and they seem to fly well with Field Points.. Am I close enough, should I fletch and shoot broadheads, or start over with stiffer spine. Maybe CX150's or GT 55/75's???

I'm getting closer and closer to going back to aluminums, or even possibly woodies..

 :scared:  

Thank you

Widowbender

what is your # and what weight tip are you trying to shoot? At what distance are you getting 3" nock left flight? I like a tad of weak because fletching will stiffen them a little...Do they hit the target in the same spot as fletched arrows?

David
David

>>>>--TGMM-Family-of-the-Bow-->

Chatham County Chapter NWTF
Chapel Hill Friends of NRA

Gator1

David,

I'm shooting 47lbs at 28"s, out the black swamp cut to center.

Im using a 145 Grain Field Tip, and a 50 Grain Brass weight..

I'm shooting from about 10 Yards, it is hitting where I'm shooting with Fletched Shafts...

I just can't believe I'd need to go to a 55/75???

Thanks for all help...

PastorSteveHill

Blessings,
Steve

Tom Anderson

Gator,
Back up to about 20 yards first and then tell us how they do.  I'm betting they'll head on off to the right, indicating weak.
I wouldn't cut off anymore (though, that's mainly because I like a long arrow) - instead, build out your sideplate a tad bit...such as placing a piece of toothpick or wooden matchstick underneath whatever's on your sideplate (Velcro, leather, sealskin, etc.).

Don't give up on the carbons yet - they're a pain in the a$$ sometimes to tune right, but once you get 'em they're some hard-hittin' sumbit......
(formerly "NativeCraft")
Wilson, NC

"short skirts create less drag in the woods..." (Dave Worden)

McDave

The main reason I shoot Gold Tips is the ability to have weights on both the front and the back.  You say you put all the weight up front you wanted to shoot.  Why not move some of it to the back, which will stiffen the arrow?
TGMM Family of the Bow

Technology....the knack of arranging the world so that we don't have to experience it.

wihill

Drop 50g from the front and I bet you'll be dead on.  If you want to keep the weight up front, you'll either need to lengthen the arrows or add weight to the back (nock)end to even stiffen the spine.
Support the sport!

ozy clint

i shoot GT 35/55's out of my 54# recurve. arrow length is 30 3/8" bop(full length) with standard insert and 240gr b/head. they fly great. sounds strange how you've got less #, less point wt., less arrow length and they show weak???? try and see if they will stiffen up enough for you by trimming and shooting. trim to your minimum arrow length if need be. failing that do what tom says. good luck
Thick fog slowly lifts
Jagged peaks and hairy beast
Food for soul and body.

Border black douglas recurve 70# and 58# HEX6 BB2 limbs

woodchucker

Just put feathers on the arrow and shoot it. Your wasting your time with the whole "bare shafting deal"

(Just one old farts opinion)
I only shoot WOOD arrows... My kid makes them, fast as I can break them!

There is a fine line between Hunting, & Sitting there looking Stupid...

May The Great Spirit Guide Your Arrows..... Happy Hunting!!!

Shawn Leonard

Gator add another 30 or so to the front end and you will be good. I believe at 29.5"s you will need at least 225 up front for great flight. I shoot Heritage 150s which spine very close to the 35/55 and I shoot them out of my bows that are 52-54#s at my draw and very good performers and with a 29.5" arrow I need 175 up front for perfect flight. It is hard to bareshaft with nock orientation, use OLs point of impact method, but first do me a favor and try what I said, I bet dollars to donuts you will be right there. Do not even bareshaft, fletch one up and shoot it, I bet it is a bullet. Shawn
Shawn

Danny Rowan

I agree with woodchucker. I have never bareshafted, do not see the need. I know what spine arrows my bows need and that is what I use, wheather it is carbon or wood tune the arrow combonation to the bow and go. All my arrows fly straight when I do my part.

Danny
"When shooting instinctivly,it matters not which eye is dominant"

Jay Kidwell and Glenn St. Charles

TGMM Family Of The Bow
NRA Life/Patron member
NAHC life member
Retired CPO US Navy 1972-1993
Retired USCBP Supervisory Officer 1999-2017

WESTBROOK

Listen to Shawn, he just got me on the fast track to success with my first carbons. Set'em up like he said and I'm hittin' Skoal cans at 20 yds with broadheads.

Thanks Shawn

Eric

Tom Anderson

Shawn,
Isn't he already indicating weak spine?  Adding more weight up front will make them even weaker...
(formerly "NativeCraft")
Wilson, NC

"short skirts create less drag in the woods..." (Dave Worden)


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