1.Epoxy in a support rod to act as the core of your beam.I use square rod or threaded.Wire has too much flex for my taste.Grind a taper on the rod at the tip. 2.I bevel the sharp edges of the existing beam so I can more easily feather the epoxy into it. 3.I build the tine or beam with an epoxy that matches the lightest color of the rack.This makes it much easier to color later.Putties I like for this are : Van Dyke's Epoxy Sculpt or Sculp Epox.There are supplier links on
www.taxidermy.net/forum/. 4.Small tines can be sculpted and textured in one shot,but often it is better to build a rough shape,let sit over night,rasp it to shape but slightly smaller than the finished diam.,then sculpt on a finished layer and texture that.This works better for me.The rough core,gives me something firm structure underneath,to work against. 5.The sculpting can be done with wet fingers,wet artist brushes,modelling tools etc.As the epoxy firms,detail texture can be added by pressing the epoxy with a Scotch Brite pad or whatever will match your existing texture. 6.The final coloring is done with water based,artist Acryic paint that comes in a tube.One brand is Liquatex,found in art and craft stores.It is very easy to use and is permanent when dry. This is a link to a tutorial I did for
www.taxidermy.net/forum/ It is a more complicated project,as the rack had the whole beam blown off by a high powered rifle,below the brow tine,including the burr.Some of the steps won't apply to a beam repair but a lot will.The information on coloring is particularly useful.
http://www.taxidermy.net/forum/index.php/topic,57091.0.html
Topic: Repairing broken tines (Read 357 times)
