Glueing on Broadheads?

[Toklat1]

Anyone tradgangers who glue on their own broadheads, I would like to hear how each one of you goes about it. What you use to heat the glue, how much you apply etc. I use one of those cannister type torches to heat the glue however it always seems that I get on too much. As the broadhead gets pressed on tho the shaft, of course too much comes out, thus having to get all the excess off after glueing. You know that can be a pain.  Just wanting to hear some different ideas out there!

[Keefer]

Mark,  I put it on the broadhead adapter or after heating the glue stick with the torch I smear it on and push, and spin the broadhead on and align it to my likeing....I then Quinch it slowly in some cool water and as the glue is somewhat cool but still  soft I peel away the excess glue...I then spin balance my heads on a spinner and  if it needs to be readjusted I reheat It very little and do any final alignments  that it may need...Sometime I use my Alcohol burner with denatured alcohol...They don't scorch the glue as bad as a torch ...But I use to be a plumber so I know how to use a torch with a soft flame if I go that route...God Bless you and Thank You for your Service for Our Nation....Keefers <")))><

[Charlie Lamb]

Mark... here's my method.

First I clean the broadheads real good. I often put them in a pan of boiling water with a drop of detergent in it. Gets rid of oil residue from the factory.
Then I clean inside the ferrule with a Q-tip and acetone or laquer thinner.
I'm a bit anal about this step, but I don't lose points.

Next I heat the ferrule with a gas flame or electric hot plate. Candles and lighters give off carbon which fouls a nice clean ferrule.

I'm careful not to heat the blade. Just the ferrule and I get it real hot.

Next I smear a dab of hot melt on the ferrule of the shaft. Only practice will keep you from getting too much, but it's better to have some sqeeze out than not enough.
If the ferrule of the head is hot enough, the glue should liquify easilly.

I then twist the head a couple of full revolutions to evenly distribute the cement.

If my taper is cut straight and the cement is evenly spread, the head should be in good alignment. When I have the blade where I want it (for me it's horizontal to the ground) I hold it in place with pliars and quench in cold water.

Simple as that.

[Scott J. Williams]

I do many of the things Charlie described above, the only thing I do different is that I don't us hot melt glue, and Charlie...LOL, I don't lose points either.  I use Gorilla Glue.  It sets up slowly, but it gives me plenty of time to correct wobble if there is any.

I have used JB Weld and JB Quick, however as you know, once it happens it is forever!!!! So if you change heads a bunch,  follow Charlie's advice.  

Arrows with heads that get chipped and dinged become my small game arrows, or my broadhead practice arrows.

[Teacher_of_the_Arcane]

Hey Guys,

Let me add a little spin.....would these techniques work with Ribteks???

[Toklat1]

Thanks guys,  This whole Traditional archery experience has pretty much been on my own, sooooo...  I need all the tips I can get.  Any other ideas out there are welcome.    Mark

[hormoan]

I really like that gorilla glue, and had not even dawned on me to try it on broadheads    


              Thanks Scott  

[Fletcher]

Be it a field point, blunt or broadhead, I clean the inside of the head with lacquer thinner or alcohol.  Very important.  I normally use a propane torch turned way down, but an alcohol burner is probably the best for heat.  I heat the glue stick (FerruleTite) and put a good smear on the shaft taper.  I then push the head on the taper and heat the head, turning the shaft until the head starts to wobble.  That tells me the glue is melted and hot.  Hole the head with pliers and twist the shaft to evenly spread the glue and push the shaft into the head and align.  While keeping the taper pressed into the head, cool it with a wet rag to set the glue, then check for alignment.  Reheat and adjust if necessary.  Shoot and have fun.

The best way to get the head straight on the shaft is to have the shaft and point tapers match perfectly.

[ozy clint]

i rough up the inside of the ferrule and the insert with sandpaper. then clean with acetone. then glue up with 2 part epoxy resin. they don't come apart.

[J-dog]

Yeah be sure the head is clean inside, then I just use ferrul tight at thestove on light heat. Then it is hand to hand combat to get them to spin correctly - least for me. God Bless all who can get them to spin straight first go round.

J