tusker bh

[Stan the bow man]

i am wondering about 250 300gr tusker bh.good bad ugaly welcome.        

happy NEW YEAR Uall Tradgangers :      

[Soilarch]

Not used them, but a pro and a con is that they are not sharpened when you buy them.

Pro...keeps the cost down
Con...some are sharpening challenged

Something I didn't learn till I'd been eyeballing them for awhile. It's not a deal breaker for me since I sharpen every broadhead I use before I take it to the woods..even brand-spanking new ones.

[TomMcDonald]

They're not the strongest heads out there but they aren't bad. I've got a few at home.

[Sharpster]

I really like the Concords and they make great single bevels. I understand that they don't have much of a bevel right out of the pack though. Very good steel but you need to take 'em down quite a bit on the first sharpening.

I also like to shorten the head a little by putting a wider tanto tip on them. Just shortening them a touch makes them quite a bit stronger.

Ron

[tradtusker]

Yip like Ron said put a tanto on them its strengthens them up a bit

[SlowBowinMO]

Most of the lighter Tuskers are .035 thickness and can benefit well from a good tanto tip.  The Concordes are another animal entirely and thus far are my favorite.  The 155 glue on/250 screw in is .050, and the 190 glue on/300 screw in is .060, very thick and strong especially with the tanto tip Tusker puts on the heavy screw ins.

The factory grind is a nice start but a good bit of work remains, they are nearly as much work as a Grizzly but not quite.  Once you get an edge on them they hold it really well and they fly fantastic.

I've taken to calling them the "Army Jeep of broadheads".  Not fancy but very tough and get the job done.  I also like that they are such a good value.

I like them so much you'll be seeing even more Tuskers at Braveheart in the future.  

[Dave Bowers]

I just got the 200gr aztec's and I am happy with them. Yea I had to sharpen them, but I had pretty much figured that I would have to.
I really like how good they fly.

[Ben Maher]

i've been using Tusker b'heads for years,my favourites being the Aztec and later on the 190's. Getting that initial edge can be a task in itself. I tend to use the big aggressive files u find in auto repair for the initial edge. Afterwards normal files,stones and strops turn them into a very durable , affordable broadhead that takes a scary sharp edge. Two years ago , i killed a large mountain boar with a spine shot, hitting the old brute near the top point of the shoulder,shattering his spine. The boar dropped intstantly, luckily falling the right way leaving my tapered cedar undamaged. Retreiving my arrow, the 190 Tusker remained undamaged and scary sharp, despite the heavy bone collision. On the way back to camp i took another smaller boar with the very same arrow. Along with Ribtek, Tuskers are the best bang for the buck around. John Tielzel's huge water buffalo trophies probably agree with me....

[larry]

the 300 gr screw ins seem to be a good head, they fly real well. I ordered some in left bevel, and let me tell ya, being right handed, and trying to sharpen a left bevel is a whole new ball game.

[ohiobowhunt]

I used the 190 screw in for the first time this year and I really like them. They fly great. There was a little prep work to be done on them , I also put a nice tanto tip on them. I took my deer this year at 35yds and the flight of that setup was a beatiful thing to watch. I am very satisfied with the penetration they gave me, if not for the off side shoulder it would have been a complete pass through.

[Al Kidner]

These BH's have killed just about every animal there is to kill back in Oz.

If you can sharpen a Zwickey you can sharpen a Tusker.


AK.

[DWLnAK]

I recently bought the 300 Concords with left wing bevel. I've never had trouble sharpening broadheads before. I spent hours trying to sharpen the first head. I nearly sent them back but I wanted a left wing heavy broadhead so I kept trying. This may not work for everyone but I have found a method for me. With a 3 Rivers 12" broadhead file, I shape a tanto tip by laying the file flat and dragging the head back towards the handle until I get the point angle I want. I put the arrow in a vise, file the bevels from the tip toward the arrow until I feel a sharp edge develop. I remove the arrow from the vise and lay the file flat on the bench. I lay the bevel of the broadhead flat on the file with the tip point forward toward the tip of the file and lightly drag the broadhead straight back toward the handle keeping the bevel flat and flush. After a few light strokes I clean the bur from the flat side by laying the broadhead flat on the files edge and dragging backwards as before. When I think it feels sharp enough I break out the smaller 3 Rivers 6" file and do the same procedure very lightly. In less than 5 minutes beginning to end, I have both bevels hair shaving paper slicing sharp. Works for me.

[DBerrard]

They do look nice. But what is the smallest arrow insert these will screw into? and do they make heavy field points to go along with them?

[SlowBowinMO]

DBerrard, they are standard screw ins, they'll fit anything your using regular screw in field points or broadheads in now, 8/32".

We have matching field points all the way up to 300 grains for tuning and practice convenience.