ok...set me straight here--which way?????

[fountain]

since getting back into traditional my dad and i have learned a lot.  one of the new things to us was the bare shaft tuning--which is difficult to perfect.  we got close and that is what we have went on...until now.
i got my dad the rick welch dvd for christmas---shooting instructional about form.  i see he shoots vertical and talks about "sighting the bow in" and getting it "shooting straight".  what about bare shaft tuning?  he does not mention that.  he mainly talks on windage and elevation and how to correct each.
when we both started shooting we were way over spined in our arrows and now are bare shafted to the best that we can do and have decent set-ups.  we both are shooting 5.5" feathers, 175 gr points, hunt with 160 gr sharks, and 100 gr. brass inserts.  my dad is shooting a 50 lb savannah with 35/55 gt with about a 27.5" draw and i am a little heavier shooting 55/75 gt with a longer draw.  i am now trying to shoot the welch style---vertical with a double anchor---thumb under jaw bone with finger in corner of my mouth and feather touching nose.
what do we need to worry about on arrows now--just get is shooting straigh or bare shaft.   the reason i ask is because i just bought new ones and found a good deal on some more 55/75 and my dad wants to try them.  should we try the new shafts and forget about bare shafting or not?

[tradtusker]

dont forget about the bare shaft tuning, get your bows tuned or you'l be robbing yourself of performance and accuracy

take a look here

  http://www.acsbows.com/bowtuning.html

[Steve B.]

There are guys that shoot vertical, canted, sideways, etc. and some anchor here, there, or wherever.  Some shoot with three fingers under, over, and in between and some shoot with two fingers.  If you are target shooting then you might be better off copying someone else.  If you are hunting then I'd say develop your own style and form.

I look at tuning this way:  Shoot the heaviest arrow combo that you can be consistent with for the range that you are accurate, put as much of that arrow weight up front, and then adjust the spine until you get straight flight without feathers, then add feathers.

So if are accurate and consistent at 50 yds. and you are willing to shoot an animal that far then you will find that, as you increase arrow weight, that it will become difficult to launch a, say, 700 grn arrow out to 50 yds. because either the trajectory is so great that consistency becomes difficult or the bow becomes inefficient with that arrow and therefore penetration would suffer.  So you find the weight that works for both the bow and your accuracy.

If, on the other hand, you want to keep shots under 25 yds., as I do, then that 700 grn. arrow might work as that big trajectory has little effect on accuracy but that heavy arrow will quiet the bow and give good penetration.  

So my opinion is that you start with distance, then figure in arrow weight, then adjust spine to shoot straight.  You could spend a lifetime trying to duplicate what others are doing in the search for perfection but there will always be someone else who is doing it well, but doing it different.  Find what works for you and what also brings you enjoyment and is suited to your approach to hunting.

[30coupe]

Shooting vertical is good for bareshafting because it eliminates some variables and lets you concentrate on tuning. Once you hit the field, you will find that vertical is not always an option. If you plan to hunt with your bow, practice vertical, canted, kneeling, sitting, etc. because you may need one of these in the field. For instance, from a tree stand, it is almost impossible to shoot vertical in all directions.

Get the arrows tuned first, then practice for accuracy. Poorly tuned arrows = poor accuracy.