Build me the perfect arrow!!!

[Meister]

I was lucky enough to pick up a White Bison longbow recently (maybe some of you seen the post). I`ll start by saying im pretty new to trying to tune a longbow or basically, build the right arrows! The bow is 55@29, and im drawing about 27.5".. I have some Gold Tip 3555`s that I used with my recurve (that I never knew if they were flying the way theyre supposed to!) cut to 28" from the knock point to the insert. They seem a bit light to me after reading everything ive read on here, but is there a way to make them work perfectly out of this bow? What grain heads would ya`ll recommend? Should I look into other arrows? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

[Paul Mattson]

The arrows should be fine.  Since you already have the arrows in your hand, get your self a few diffent wts and give them a try.  If you have already shot them, how did they fly?

[Meister]

Ive only shot them at 10 yards or so in my basement (its in the single digits out there!).. They seem to be ok at this distance, but I am noticing in my point of impact im a bit left and right.. Cant notice the arrow in flight being right or left tho, so maybe its just me? Should I look into weight tubes? Any ideas on what point weight to try next? Thanks for the input!

[Steve H.]

Suggestion.  Don't get too overly concerned about arrow flight, if they seem to fly reasonably well then enjoy the arrow's flight and enjoy!  Not suggesting you use mismatched equipment just that it doens't need to be overly complex!

[Meister]

Thanks Steve! Just want to make sure that the bow and arrow set up is dang close, so thata way, its only the person behind the bow making the mistakes!

[Billy]

For now, at that distance...work on your form.
When you get more space the tell-tales will let you know if the arrows are spined right.

[Morning Star]

Beman MFX 400's cut to 28", 100 grain brass insert.  Should get ya awful close. Guessing you'd just have to play with your tip weight for the final bareshaft testing.

I shoot 200 grain tips and the arrow finishes around 625 grains.


Hey.....just a suggestion anyhow.  It's my favorite arrow to date.

[30coupe]

Cut to 28" those will be plenty stiff. I'd just do as Badger suggested and try some different weights. He ought to know, he sells arrows!

[Brent Hill]

You can either put a heavier fieldpoint like 200 or 250 on the front or use GT weights plus your point to weakin the spine.  With 35-55, I cut them to 29 inches and use 125 grains of weights behind the insert with a point or broadhead weighing 125.  By using the weights up front, you can get a heavier arrow that flies better.   With bare shafting, I shoot at 15 to 18 yards to see how the arrow is impacting left or right to test for a correct arrow spine.  If the arrow tip is pointing towards the inside of your shelf (right for rt handed, left for left handed) your arrow is spine is weak. Take off weight from the tip by using a lighter point or less weights.  If your arrow tip is pointing away from the riser, the spine is too heavy.  Put a little more weight on the tip end of the arrow.  Once you arrow is hitting your target dead straight ( or close to it) into the target at 15-20 yards  (hopefully where you were aiming asuming your knock height is set up right) you made it. Fletch up the arrows and have fun.  Generally, if two different GT arrows fly well with the same weight combo bareshafted, I will set the rest of the arrows up the same way with no trouble.  Write down the specific # of grains of weight used and arrow spine and length info for later reference.  Once you arrived at that info, you can experiment with other shaft lengths, weights and such.  I now use full length 55-75 (longer the shaft, lesser the spine) with 300 grains upfront to get the same spine that I get with 29 inch 35-55 with 250 upfront but with more weight.  I hope this helps.  Good luck Bhill

[Gator1]

Brent,

Great Explanation....

   

Im' tellin ya, those carbon manufacturers are big fans of bare shafting, especially if ya cuttem short...LOL....