Want to get started building wooden arrows.

[Chester Thompson]

I want to get started building wooden arrows, right now I am just looking for functional, but pretty, what are the basic tools that I am going to need? Also if you have any links on how to get started that would be very helpful.

I am sorry if this has been covered before, with my basic understanding I have not been able to create the right searches to find it, so if you would not mind I would love to see links to previous topics to help me out.

Thanks,
Chester

[ishiwannabe]

A taper tool, fletching jig and a way to seal the shafts. For simple, yet effective ideas for sealing, check out my thread about sealing woodies.
Other than that, feathers, points, and nocks.
Make sure whatever you use is compatible with the glue you intend to use though...nothing like having the feathers fall off on the first shot. LOL.

[Chester Thompson]

Sorry I meant to say, functional, not necessarily pretty.

 

Originally posted by ishiwannabe:

Make sure whatever you use is compatible with the glue you intend to use though...nothing like having the feathers fall off on the first shot. LOL.

Can you please explain more? What kind of glue do you use and does it work?

How do you get the points and the knocks to be inline? I assume that if they are off that will effect the arrow flight, correct?

[Fletcher]

Chester, here's a link to an earlier post on this subject.  http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=068082;p=1#000006  

Duco glue works very well for both water and oil base polyurethanes and most other finishes.  You are correct that nocks and points must be installed straight,  The best way to get them on straight is to have straight tapers of the correct angle to match the nock or point you are using.  They are all close, but not exactly the same.  A V-block guide and disk sander is the only way I have found to make true tapers.

Don't forget to have fun!

[john fletch]

I use DUCO for nocks and Fletching
I use Ferr-L-Tite for points

I prefer to lacquer dip using a Little Dipper tube.  Lacquer is fast and dries very even and you only need one coat if you learn to thin it just right.  You do need ventilation.

I have several Multifletchers (including one from the original maker before Jo-Jan got it)

I also have a wheel of 6 Bitzenburgers for more precise work.  You can probably get by with a single if you are not making more than a few dozen arrows per year.

You can get by with several brands of Taper tool. It would be beneficial to get one that the blades can be replaced - they are hard to sharpen more than a couple times.

You may want to go with die cut feathers, but I have long been a proponent of using full length feathers and my Young feather trimmer.  I think you can get the feathers to glue on more solid and the shape is perfect for every arrow when you burn.  It is a major investment and a stinky process!

You may get to the point you also need a spine tester.  That is a ways off if you are happy with shafts from a source you trust.  Same with a grain weight scale.

Finally, when you really get the bug you will want to learn to crest your arrows.  By then we have you hooked for good!

I have seen most of what you need for sale off and on in the classifieds here(don't know why they want to sell stuff - hopefully to buy more of another fun thing)

It takes a lot of time and patience to make a good arrow, it takes less to make a passable one.

That is up to you.

OBTW - a good book will help and there are also a number of 'how to' posted on traditional archery web sites.

Good Luck

[Killdeer]

I found this in the How-To forum.

 http://www.tradgang.com/woodies/

The tools I use are;
Woodchuck taper grinder
Bitzenburger fletching jig (W/Duco or Fletch-tape)
Young feather burner
Flight-Rite spine tester
Digital scale
Spinner (old Tri-Hone whetstone holder)
Kitchen stove for heat-straightening and hot melt glue
X-acto knives, rags, sandpaper, four-aught steel wool, yardstick, pliers, arrow cut-off saw. I just started to use the saw. I used to use a coping saw, or hacksaw, and it did fine.

I use aniline dyes and Minwax stains, and polyurethane sealers. I used to use Tru-Oil, which works great but takes a long time. The older I get, the more I shy away from harsh chemicals and grab the water-based stuff instead.

You can trim your fletches with scissors if you don't want to get real fancy. The grain scale is nice, but proper spine is more important than a few grains of weight. A good supplier will be able to talk to you and find out what you need for shafting, and match them in spine and weight. There are some intrepid souls who have made their own spine testers, maybe there is a thread somewhere on that. I dunno why the things are so expensive.

Killdeer

[the not so straight arrow]

always wanted to get into that myself. if ya search the topic some good stuff comes up on the subject.
-cory

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

I use ratchet action pruners to cut my shafts down.  There are also screw on points in 125 grain that you can buy from 3 rivers if you don't want to mess with glueing your field tips on yet.

[ishiwannabe]

Fletch tite usually only works with other bohning products or wraps. Other products it either melts or doesnt stick at all...

[Fletcher]

T.J. Conrads book, "The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook" is a very good reference source, not just for arrows but for lots of bowhunting/archery things.

[Chester Thompson]

Thanks for the info, I think that the first step will be to pick up the "The Traditional Bowhunter's Handbook" and go from there.