weight tubes

[twitchstick]

i have recently switch from a round wheel barebow shooter to a recurve and having  problems bare shaft tuning.i am shooting 30" 5575 goldtips @ #50 and 125 gr tip.arrows grouped well but my weight was not ok for my elk hunting habit.i added weight tubes 8 gr a inch.putting up to about 650 total.now my arrows "bare shaft" are flying way right, clear of the target almost flying side ways.should i drop down in weight tubes or what are my options? p.s i am right handed

[Jason Jelinek]

I used weight tubes and got rid of them because of the rattle they made.  I use more weight up front now, still keeping a heavy arrow.  The increased weight up front improves penetration also.

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

The 5575 may be wrong for your set up all together. I would ditch the weight tubes and go with more weight up front.  It takes a lot of weight up front for a 5575 to tune from a stickbow @ 50#.  Also if you are shooting the regular 5575's they will be much lighter than the GT traditionals.

[snag]

By the way, I've got a bunch of weight tubes. If anyone wants to pay the shipping they can have them. I used them with GTs also. I have weights and the long allen wrench for screwing them in with too.

[J-dog]

I do nto like weight tubes - but that is me. I fought trying to get arrows to fly right for awhile. Finally the last thing I did was remove the tubes - YEP flew like darts.

I know guys use em with good results but not something I wish to try again.

Go with weight up front as buckeye said.

My .02

J

[RVSwisher]

Snag,

What weight tubes do you have and how many.  I am interested if you want to get them out of your house.  Also are you wanting to let go of the GT weights and wrench also.  I'm useing GT 3555.

Let me know.

Thanks

RVS

[SlowBowinMO]

I've had good results with the lighter weight tubes.  When you start getting into the higher gpi tubes they are not so friendly though.

[ozy clint]

sometimes you have to use them. try getting a 750gr plus arrow for a 70# bow without them. or if you can, tell me what shaft will be stiff enough to take over 500gr upfront out of this bow. most i can think of upfront using readily available components is 525gr. 300gr b/head, 125gr adapter & 100gr insert.

[J-dog]

Ozy. you be shootin a piece of iron rod to put 500 up front! LOL. Just stray from the tubes - maybe try weedeater line?

I have no idea and am wanting a 650 grain arra - still doing the math to get there? So we are kinda in the same boat. If ya find a solution let me know!

J

[pointystick]

Originally posted by Jason Jelinek:
I used weight tubes and got rid of them because of the rattle they made.

I haven't tried weight tubes (no carbon hunting shafts as of yet to try them in), but I'm curious. 3 Rivers has a video about them and they show how you can "crimp" them every few inches or so with needle nose pliers to stop them from rattling. Did you ever try this?

[J-dog]

Yeah pointy that is how I did mine and it stopped the rattle. Just flight issues, I am wondering if weedeater string will be better?

J

[artifaker1]

ozy clint; I have some 2317s with 500 up front. Using a 200 grain broad head and 300 grains of 5/16 all thread behind the insert. They weight at 995 grains and are at about 23% FOC and fly pretty well off my 70# No.three bear take down limbs. I get them back to at least 29 inches. They could stand to be shortened up a little but still recover very fast. They are still full length and could be shortened several inches. One of them won't hold a knock, it was slapped on the ground. It comes out when the bow is thrusting the arrow and makes a real strange sound. I don't think I will use them for serious hunting unless I have a real large diameter broad head on them and better nocks (heavy duty glue on).
I also have some 100LB+ GTs that have 400 Grains up front, 200 grain broad head and 200 grains of 1/4 all thread behind the insert. These weight 800 grains or so and are at about 22% FOC. They fly well at full length out of a SAIII 62#, 29 to 30 inch draw and could be cut down a lot for heavier bows. I found the brass inserts didn't fit well in Gold tips so I went to the all thread trick and it works in easton aluminum and other arrows you can't get brass inserts for. I have a good bundle of weight tubes just sitting there that I took out of arrows, LOL. I also find that the all thread footed arrows are much tougher as well.
And one other thing I've noticed; the arrows with the weight spread out a little up front fly better than ones which have all the weight on the point. I guess that is why footed shafts for wood arrows were developed, after all they could have just made heavier points. By this I mean the arrows with some weight behind the insert so that the weight is spread out to three or more inches. .

[pointystick]

Thanks, J-dog.  It looked like a good idea in the vid, but it's good to hear it works in the "real" world also.   :cool: