Insert glue when bareshaft tuning

[Red Dwarf]

I will soon be doing some bareshaft tuning and would like to know what adhesive you guys use that allow you to remove the inserts for shaft trimming purposes but still holds well enough to prevent points getting left behind in the targets?

Thanks

Red Dwarf

[Predator1]

I use clear plastic. You can take the little baggies that nocks or points come in and slip a piece over the insert and then push the insert in. Holds pretty good during testing. Once your done with testing you can Fer-L-tite or something more permanent like super glue or Goat tuff.

[J.Williams]

I like a low-temp hot melt that you can get out by heating the tip over a small flame or in boiling water.

[Curtis Haden]

Had the same problem lately in getting a dozen new CX carbons set up.  I ended up going with Gold Tip "Tip Grip" for my insert adhesive.  It's a cyanocrylate (super glue) based adhesive but seems to be a little easier to get out with heat.

For bare shaft tuning, I put a very small dab of the Tip Grip right at the point end of the insert.  When I needed to remove it, I just screwed a long field point in and used an alcohol burner apply heat to the field point.  Do it gradually and use pliers to grip the field point until the insert is heated enough to pull loose.

I don't believe the amount of heat necessary is enough to damage the carbon, and you're trimming away the part that gets heated the most, around the small glue joint right at the end of the shaft.

[JRY309]

I like to use a little saran wraps or plastic food wrap.I'll push in the insert with alittle food wrap to hold the insert snuggly.But you need to shoot it in a softer bag target.I shoot through a 3" flat foam target into a soft bag target.The foam holds the arrows position and the bag taget doesn't grab tight enough to pull the insert back out on removal.I can tune my carbons without ever using any heat on them.After I'm done I'll etch or scratch the inside with a bore brush,then clean with alocohol and then epoxy with a two-part 24 hr. epoxy.

[NorthernCaliforniaHunter]

Excellent timing! I was just about to ask the same thing!

[TomMcDonald]

Superglue works fine. If you'ev got a gas stove, heat the field tip over it with the tip half unscrewed so you don't damage the carbon. You can do the same with wood too.
If not, use a cigarette lighter.
Use pliers to remove the point. No harm, no fowl.

[Don Baker]

If we are talking carbon arrows here,I go ahead and glue the point insert in as normal and if any trimming is to be done I do it from the nock end since the nock pushes in anyway- no fussing around with glue that way.
Don

[Littlejake]

White plumbers tape works good,haven't had any trouble with any pulling out.

[L82HUNT]

Don that's the way to do it.  

[Curtis Haden]

Agree that trimming from the back is a good idea.  Doesn't work so good if you use an arrow wrap however.  I've found that wraps stiffen the shaft enough that I want to do my bare shaft testing with them on...

[metsastaja]

I used a bit of superglue on the insert close to the end of the end of shaft .  To remove but drill bit in shaft and whip the shaft. Will knock out insert and any tip. May take a few times. Once you see it begin to come out slow down the whipping If you do not Watch out for flying objects.  

I also cut from the nock end. Lot easier then taking out the insert every time.

[Red Dwarf]

I was planning on using the planing method; shooting both fletched and bare shafts. As far as I read things, you need to trim the fletched shafts as well as the bare shafts as you progress towards tune so all trimming has to be done at the "point" end.

I think I will try the shrink wrap or plumber's tape method in my bag target.

As always, there is a wealth of information available here and many people more than willing to share. Thanks guys

Red Dwarf

[Doc Nock]

I had some old fly rod hard ferrule cement... I put that on the insert... while hot, wiped with a clean wet cloth... then sanded to fit snug.

When done testing the 6 shafts, fletched and bare, re-heat the ferrule cement and wipe it off totally. Rough up arrow interior a bit with rolled sandpaper, then apply Bohning Hot Melt (amber stuff) and it seems to last forever but removes with heat if needed.

[TomMcDonald]

Originally posted by Littlejake:
White plumbers tape works good,haven't had any trouble with any pulling out.

doesn't work with tapered shafts.

[SteveB]

Low temp hot melt for both tuning and final - never have a point pull out or damaged an arrow.
I bareshaft group tune with fletched, so cutting the rear is not an option.

Steve

[Smallwood]

archery hot melt (the amber colored stuff) for tuning and hunting. you know, you can cut the shaft from the nock end if you want instead of having to pull inserts.
I like to pull them and cut from the shaft end though. Just stick a field point in and heat it till it a little at a time and grip it with pliers and twist a little, if it doesn't move, heat some more and repeat till it does move and then pull it out with a twisting motion.