If you want to spend money on a test kit, make sure the arrows in the kit are "hand spined and weighed". If they're not you're wasting your money. Wood shafts that come in bulk from the factory are not hand spined..they're electronically spined by machine and they are not weighed at all.
A good arrow maker will take the bulk shafts and hand spine them on the edge grain and usually group them in 5# increments. In some cases machine spined arrows can vary as much as 20#. When Paul hand spines shafts he groups them within 2 to 3 #..... Then they should be grain weighed within 10 grains. Then they need to be checked for straitness and straightened. All this before you even start to make the arrow.
A good arrowsmith also needs to know the type of bow you are shooting, longbow, recurve, selfbow, the kind of string is important, dacron, fastflight ect. The bow weight of coarse but also the individuals draw length to determine the weight they are getting out of their bow. Then he needs to know if the bow is cut out from center, center or past center. A bow cut center or past center is going to need a stiffer arrow because it has less paradox coming out of the bow.
Lastly, when you give an arrowsmith your draw length, don't give an estimate. I tell people the way to check their draw length is to put a clamp on clothes pin horizontally behind the head of the arrow and draw your bow. If the clothes pin doesn't touch the back of the bow, move it in until it does. Then measure from the bottom of the slot in the nock to the pin and that's your draw length. Rule of thumb is to add one inch to that to allow for broadhead clearance. If a good arrowsmith has the correct information then he can formulate the correct arrow for the individual and guarantee they will fly.
Topic: Wood arrows for my Shrew (Read 458 times)
