CX arrows question(s)

[GMMAT]

Tell me where/if my "logic" is flawed....

For the sake of discussion, we'll assume I'm shooting a LB @ 52#'s at my DL, and that'll be the bow I hunt with.  I'll be shooting a recurve, also, with the same specs.

I have CX 250's that I plan to set up at a heavy weight to hunt with (got a great deal on them, from a fellow TG'er IF I can use them).  I understand these arrows are probably going to be too stiff, so that's why I'm going to add the necessary tip weight.

So let's say I wanted to shoot some 3D with the recurve.  On paper, I should be able to shoot the same arrows, right?  Bt let's say for targets I wouldn't mind having a little lighter arrow.  Couldn't I simply set up some CX 150's and utilize a lighter tip weight?

Make sense?

Or....would you guys try to find a "perfect arrow" you could shoot with both bows?

[Shawn Leonard]

You could get the same arrow to fly from both bows by just changing point weights. I will say this, you are gonna need a lot of weight up front on those arrows to get them to fly out of even a high performing cut past center recurve and even more weight up front put of a longbow unless ya leave them awefully long. I shoot the 150s cut to 29.5"s with 175 grains up front out of my RER Arroyo and XR recurves both are 54#s at my draw(28.5"s) and I can shoot the same set-up out of my RER LX longbow but it is 57#s at my draw. I believe if ya draw 28"s you will need at least 275 up front on those 250s and maybe more if ya cut them 29-29.5"s and with the longbow most likely near 325 up front. Shawn

[GMMAT]

I keep hearing that, Shawn....and I trust you guys.

The guy I got the 250's from shoots 350's, now.  How does he do this with a 56# bow?  His tip weight is 125gr. if I'm not mistaken, but no more than 225gr.

[Molson]

The Heritage 250's are going to be too stiff.  Save yourself some grief and just buy some 150's.  They'll come out at around 10 gpp for you and there are plenty of ways to increase the shaft weight if you want more.

I shoot 350's from a 67# Ghost with 350 or 400 up front depending on the shaft length.  No idea how someone shoots 350's from a 56# bow unless it's cut well past center and they have a long draw length.

[oldskool]

GMMAT, I wish I would have listened to Shawn when I set up my bow and went with 150's like he suggested.
My bow is 57@29 and I cut mine at 30.25. Ended up with 265 up front to tune. I will say Man do they hit hard.

[Don Batten]

you have'nt said how long you cut your arrows, it makes a big differance. I shoot 350's out of a 59lb@28 rick welch recurve, but they are uncut(33") and with 200gn heads. I only draw 28+-. I have a schafer longbow61@28  that I shoot 150'scut to 29 1/2 with 300gns up front. both set ups work good for me, but I might not be a good enough shot to know the differance .DB

[Don Batten]

Jeff, just noticed you are in NC. If You are close by I have plenty of shafts you can come over and test all you want. Or I can send you a care package of several. DB

[dragon rider]

You might get the 250s to fly the way you want them by leaving them 2" to 3" longer than your draw length, but if they're already cut to the point that you don't have that luxury, then I'd go with Shawn and oldskool and get the 150s.  Start 3" longer than you think you want, with the 175 gr points, and cut them back about 1/4" at a time until you get the flight you want.

[WESTBROOK]

You might squeak by with the 250 if your bow is cut past center. My Shrew is 58 @ 30 and the 250 were still a little stiff at full length with 350g up front, that was over 800gr arrow, too heavy for my taste. The other shrew is 53 @ 30 and loves 150's w/50g insert and 175g point, 600g arrow.

Eric

[GMMAT]

Batman:

Where do you live in NC?

[Don Batten]

new bern. Don

[GMMAT]

Thanks, Batman....but I'm a foothiller.

I apreciate it, though.

I think I'm going to order some 150's and have him leave them all full length.....and two un-fletched.

Should be able to get a wetup that works, that way.....and if not...somebody's gettin' a deal!

Thanks, guys.

[metsastaja]

I shoot a recurve cut center 54@28 my draw is 29. I use CE Heritage 250's cut at 30" and have 225 upfront. I used bare shaft tuning.

 I wouldn't change a thing. I could not get the 150's to shoot well at all.

Guess we are all different.

[La. bowhunter]

I keep hearing all this stuff about stiff arrows and weak arrows and dont know where it all comes from but dont believe most of it. I shoot a recurve 56 @ 28 my draw is 28 1/2 and I shoot CX heritage 350's 31 inches long with a 50 gr. brass insert, 150gr. BH, and footed with 2 inches of 2212 alum. I have bare shaft tuned, tuned by planing (adcock method), and used the dynamic spine calculator posted on here a few days back and it all tells me I am shooting the perfect arrow. Also the 4 turkeys, 4 deer, and 5 hogs I have killed with it in the past 12 months havent argued with it either. I say all this to say that a little trial and error and trying different options is what is needed. I wouldnt sell the 250's and go buy more arrows without at least trying to get them to work. I think they will work. Just my 2 cents.

[GMMAT]

La.

I won't be getting rid of them UNTIL they prove to be useless (for my setup).  they belong to a friend, now (I have them, though) and he's offering me a great deal on them IF they work.

Badger Arrow (tradgang sponsor) is offering a GREAT deal on finished arrows, currently (oughta check them out.....it's a great deal), so i thought it would be a relatively cheap way to be sure I had arrows to shoot when my bow arrived.

Thanks to ALL for your advice.  I'll report back my findings.  With a little direction from a GREAT bowyer/shooter (friend of mine, here), we'll get AN arrow flying true, soon.

Thanks, again.

Jeff