attaching points to wood arrows?

[crosseye]

hi, all,

what are your most successful adhesives for attaching field points/broadheads to wood arrows?

thanks for the input

stan

[wv lungbuster]

I just use regular clear glue sticks and a propane torch seems to hold up pretty good.

[The Vanilla Gorilla]

I was using Bohning Ferrule Tite, the amber stuff.  I had good luck with it, but it seemed like after a year, the stuff would get brittle, and I would lose a lot of points in targets.

Maybe something in my wood stain? Don't know.

Anyway, I switched to some stuff called Hunt Bond, that I got from The Nocking Point.  So far it seems to work really well, and it was a bit cheaper, too.

[horatio1226]

2 part epoxy and nothing else for me. To remove the point, I heat it with a candle and pull it off with pliers. My points never come off (knock on wood    )

[**DONOTDELETE**]

clear glue sticks from wally world.

[dnovo]

Clean the points good and Feer-l-tite has always worked good for me. Only time I lose points is sometimes when a 3D target is cold. 5 minute epoxy does a good job also

[crosseye]

thanks for teh quick input, guys.  i used hot glue sticksthat worked great for 6 months, then 80% of my points fell off within 2 days...annoying to say the least!

stan

[**DONOTDELETE**]

did you clean the points on the inside? did you make the taper little ruff so the glue will stick?

[Grey Taylor]

Clean the points well and 12 min epoxy is my procedure. Can't remember when I last lost a tip in a hay bale, excelsior bale, or 3d target.

Guy

[Broken Arrow 1]

Hot melt

[john fletch]

I have used Ferrl Tite for years but had some difficulties the last couple years.  I think I decided the probelm was the residue left in the PDP points.  They are about the only brand available any moe and I need to clean them with alcohol before gluing on or the glue can come loos in a target.  I do not have this problem with older points I still have or with broadheads.  I think the clear hot melt is too soft and I have never liked epoxy for points.  I think you have to get the heat too high to break them loose and it is hard on the shaft.  If you never plan to remove the points I guess it would not matter.

[Bowspirit]

I'm new to this wood arrow game myself, but I've come to favor the Kim-sha hot melt to regular Ferr-L-Tite. Seems to give a better hold and handle better in all conditions...

[Grey Taylor]

John, you're right. A higher heat is needed to break the epoxy bond. However, I just switched out points on a set of 14 arrows that I put the wrong points on (note to self: re-read the arrow order at each step) and the wood didn't even change color from the heat. One thing that may have helped was using a pair of pliers to pull the tip. That way I was able to break the bond at a lower heat than what may have been done with just waiting for the point to fall off on its own.

Guy

[Tim Fishell]

I have always used Goat Tuff glue from Kustom King and never had a problem and it sets up fast.  The nice thing is it is still heat reverseable so I can change points without a problem.

[ishiwannabe]

This seems very familiar. I think the regular hot melt might break down over time, causing the lost points.(Read my quote)  :D  

I now use a construction grade hot melt that I got from a friend..sorry, dont know the name or source.

[frank bullitt]

Well , everything previously said is good advice!Prep work with any material and adhesive is very important. But remember, this is wood and overtime wood does swell and shrink so it's a good idea to check your points by pulling with pliers if they have been idle for awhile. Good shootin,Steve