Arrow Building Question

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I have a quick question. I'm beginning to make my own arrows. Do I taper first, stain, then fletch? I've read that some fletch before staining. Is there any good reason for this or just a personal preference?

[Rich LaBombard]

I mark the direction of the grain on one end, with
a perm marker.
Stain.
Cut to length.
Taper the nock end. Apply nock.
Fletch
Taper the point and apply field tip, blunt, etc.
(never heard fletch first and then stain.  seems like that would be a mess)
Let's see what others say.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I hadn't heard that either. They stated they did it because they didn't feel there was a strong contact between the fletching and seal/poly.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Also, I believe I understand about the nock and grain. The nock needs to be perpindicular(sp?) to the grain?

[Rich LaBombard]

coldsteel, when I have tossed arrows  together to try out (cedar), I have sometimes skipped the staining, and the feathers adhere somewhat poorly.

I'd guess the bare wood is porous, and a coat of stain gives better adhesion.

As for the grain and the nock, you have it right.
Check "building wood arrows" on the LW, they have a good drawing of what it needs to look like.

I have to say, I'm no expert at this, but I do enjoy making my own arrows.

Good luck. (PM me if you need help with that link)

[Dick in Seattle]

just finishing my second batch... I cut to length, then tapered both ends... no stain (but will next batch)... 2 coats wipe on poly... 10" white dip... 7" yellow dip... crest... two more coats poly... nock... point... fletch.    I used the fletch tape on the first batch, and that stuff is definitely on there!    Why'd I do it in that order?   Cause that's what I was told... or... I was only following orders.    In any event, as a process it worked the first time, seems to be working the second time (I'm up to cresting) and I'm pleased with the result.

If you're a first timer, I posted my first batch, step by step, including all the mistakes (!) at   www.howardhillshooters.com   scroll down to Dick Makes Arrows.   If you have any experience, I'm sure it won't do a thing for you, but it might save another first timer a boo boo or two.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

Thanks Rich and Dick. Very helpful info. Justin

[Tree man]

I usually, straighten, taper the nock end, measure for crest, stain below the cresting area ( I like to leave an unstained "crown dip" that isn't dipped at all) crest, dip with polyacrylic and hang shafts by the nock taper, sand, recoat. repeat, Glue on nocks and cut to length , point taper and fletch...or cut to length and taper after fletching-no biggie either way. Lots of steps.
I do nock tapers first because they are most critical and I want the option of trimming and recutting before cresting and staining so that the crowns are all the same length.

[fflintlock]

Another little trick is to glue nocks on after you fletch, so you can line up the fletching for maximum clearnance off the shelf. You can fletch alright by just pushing the nock on the taper and installing the shaft in the jig, just pay attention to it.
 If your going to cap the shaft, measure then mark it with a pencil, stain up to the cap mark, then cap from the mark up to the nock end. Stains will bleed through the cap paint. If you dip the cap, you should taper after dipping, so as not to have a build up of paint on you nock taper and your gluing the nock to the wood.
 I straighten shafts, taper nock ends, stain shafts, I have been stainning the caps too, crest, seal, fletch, glue nocks, cut to length, taper point and glue them on.
 Make sure what ever your using for stains, paints, glues, etc. that they are all compatible to one another, or you'll have a mess on your hands. You can't put water based finishes over lacquers, but you can do the opposite. Some fletch cements won't work on some finishes either.
 I have been experimenting with water based stains and paint markers, then clear coat with spray on lacquer and fletching with fletchtite cement.
 I do like the water based stains though, for the shaft and caps. They let the grain show through and actually look pretty decent. I'm going to try some other based stains on the next batch and see how they do.
 I also weigh and spine my shafts before hand, then letter them on the point end of the shaft, a , b , c , etc. then log them in my notebook of what letter shaft was what weight and what spine. Then when I'm finished, I'll write that letter on the back side of the shaft between the fletching, as a refference. Comes in handy sometimes.
 The thing about all the Bohnning products, is you have to order them and there's a lot of other things you have to have and do to use them, plus the price. there are other alternitives to use, you just have to search them out. Bohnning makes a dang good product and it does a terrific job with a durrable finish, the only problem is, there just not handy, unless you have a Traditional store in your neighborhood.
 I'm not an expert by no means, these are just a few things I've learned and am experimenting with. That's part of the fun in making your own arrows.
Have fun, but pay attention and take a few notes, for the next batch.
Jerald