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Author Topic: Some beginner arrow questions  (Read 312 times)

Offline DeoreDX

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Some beginner arrow questions
« on: May 28, 2009, 07:51:00 AM »
I've been looking over the Easton arrow charts and comparing it to what you guys post about what you are using and it seems you guys tend to underspine compared to what Easton reccomends.  It's not always the case but more often then not if there is deviation from the Easton chart it's almost always towards an underspined arrow.  Is there a particular reason for this or does this pattern just sort of come about from arrow tuning?

Also when I was at a big box store looking at their arrow stuff I was browsing through their field points.  On the back had a little illustration stating that getting a field point smaller then the arrow diameter (or same diameter of course) was OK, but do not get one larger then the arrow diameter.  That seemed counter intuitive to me.  Why would this be the case?

For the record I'm setting up some 2013's @ 28.5" out of my 40#@28" recurve.  I draw a shade under 28" (~27.5" but my form is not 100% consistent yet).  I'm guessing 256gr for the shaft, maybe 40 for inserts and knocks and fletching, ~100 for a head will get me about 10gpp.  THink that's OK?
-Jin aka DeoreDX

Online Charlie Lamb

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Re: Some beginner arrow questions
« Reply #1 on: May 28, 2009, 08:30:00 AM »
The Easton charts should only be considered a guideline to get you in the ball park with their shafts. Typically they suggest stiffer than what's needed.

Not sure why they suggest a field point smaller than or same size as shaft. Probably has to do with arrow removal from targets.

While your choice of 2013 is ok (I haven't looked at the charts and am not familiar with that size), remember that the first two numbers indicate the outside diameter in 64ths and the second two is the wall thickness in thousandths.

The 13 thousandths wall thickness will be fairly fragile as far as bending is concerned. Perhaps an 1816 would work. It would certainly be tougher.
Hunt Sharp

Charlie

Offline DeoreDX

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Re: Some beginner arrow questions
« Reply #2 on: May 28, 2009, 08:38:00 AM »
The 2013's were hard to pass up at $25/dozen  :)   Or I would have been looking at 1916 or 1816's.
-Jin aka DeoreDX

Offline twotimer

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Re: Some beginner arrow questions
« Reply #3 on: May 28, 2009, 09:18:00 AM »
the 2013s have long been my go to arrow for bows from 40/48#,different lengths,but all with 125 grain head for me.i have a set of realtree hardwoods that i have been shooting for 5 years now.your estimation of weight is about right,around 400 grains with the 100 gr.point.ditto on using the correct point dia.ie,5/16,or??,if you go above the correct dia.its a bugger extracting them from bag targets,carbord,ect.and yes,the easton charts are overspined imo.regards,robert  :thumbsup:    :campfire:    :coffee:
'TGMM FAMILY of THE BOW"at 211 degrees water is hot.at 212 it boils and cause's steam,which can run a locomotive.is it worth that one extra ounce of effort to finish first,the difference between good and great?

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