F-Manny, exactly what I was thinking.
Guaranteed "Lower than ya want to see" type numbers. Especially if doing the 20 yard and 30 yard group height difference thing.
Not only does the arrow begin to drop the instant it leaves the bow due to gravity but it begins to slow down too. By 20 yards, I'm sure it's lost quite a bit of speed depending on the wind resistance due to fletch, oscillations of the shaft, frontal cross section etc etc.... Measure between there and 30 yards and dang, gotta be showing a lot of slow down.
Then try to figure out how much speed loss you have due to fletch size, improper tuning or whatever, whew! What's the point? I can eyeball flight and trajectory to get a good enough idea of performance in my bows to satisfy myself.
Honestly, my "Go to" method for checking performance of my bows is to shoot for max distance on a calm day. My hunting weight arrows shot from my longbow that is 60# at 30" but pulled about 32" (Arrows 33-34" BOP) are heavy but will shoot right about 190 to 210 yards if the bow is held at about a 35-40 degree incline. The 190 is about right for wood arrows and the 210 is for Heritage 350 carbons which are lighter than the woods. Broadheads seem to shoot farther than field points. Too high of a shot angle (45deg or more) cuts down distance.
I've heard many times that a self bow should shoot a hunting weight arrow about the draw weight plus 100 yards if decently tillered. Some guys get draw plus about 120 yards. Glass bows can get draw plus 150 or better.
Not really a help for figuring speed as far as getting an actual number but certainly an accurate performance indicator of one bow to another (if both are equally well tuned and shooting the same grains per pound).