What arrow?

[SD Archer]

I bought my first trad bow, long bow, early this year and since been trying to find proper spine arrow, tip weight, along with trying to find my form. Currently Im grouping fairly well at 15, but my arrows seem to want to hit left. Im shooting a combination of 3555 goldtips, beman 400's, aluminum easton 500's. Im varing my tip weights from 125 to 145. All seem to be hitting about the same left to right. But, hears the question, what would you recomend for an arrow shooting out of a 45lb @ 29" draw montana longbow. I'm not sure if I should be shooting something else or if im on the right track?

[GMMAT]

I'd suggest two things:

1.  Pick ONE arrow and stick to it.

2.  Bare shaft tune to find that one arrow (brand/length/spine/tip weight).

This exercise is a LOT easier (and less stressful) than guessing.

Good luck!

[wollelybugger]

I have found nothing better than wood for being quiet and forgiving. My bows shoot quieter when using wood arrows and have had no problem with tuning them. You have to get the right spine for your bow.I paid 2.25 for the shafts and it cost me 2.00 for the feathers. I make them for about five dollars per arrow complete minus points.

[moose eye levi]

Yes, definatly go with wood!!

[bigiron]

try 175 & 200 grain points on the 500s & see what happens. that's what it took for me.

[stabow]

I would try some 1916, 2016 or some wood spine for 50-55#.....stabow

[30coupe]

You are going to need a 500 spine if you shoot carbon, and you will probably need at least 200 grains up front. 400s are way too stiff for a 45# bow. I agree with the 1916s if you go aluminum. They will shoot like darts out of your bow and you will be able to trim them a bit to boot.

Woodies shoot quietly and fly just fine, but you need to have time to fiddle with making them. The raw shafts will need to be straightened, finished with poly or lacquer, crested (not necessary, but it looks cool), the tip and nock ends tapered, and finally fletch and glue on a head. There are lots of steps involved before you have a finished arrow, which is why completed wooden arrows are not cheap. They are also not as durable as either carbon or aluminum. The do smell nice if you break one, if that's any consolation.

I have used all three. Right now I am shooting 500 carbons. They fly well and are pretty durable. I can get the FOC up over 20% easily without having to shoot super heavy arrows. The best part is they are consistent from one arrow to the next, so they are more accurate. There is nothing wrong with any of the three materials. As has been said, though, you need to pick one and shoot it a while before you will know if it's you or the arrow that needs work.    

[SD Archer]

Great info guys, thanks a lot. Been shooting compounds forever and thought I had it all figured out till I got into trad shooting, ha. Thanks again, I'll stick with the 500 spine and put more weight up front and see what happens.