Split finger nock set height?

[xtrema312]

What is the range on nock set height for split finger shooting?  I have been around 1/8-3/16" to the bottom of my nock set from the top of the nock when the arrow is square to the string.  I have been trying some higher settings and seem to be at the right spot based on bare shafting.  I still see my bare shaft kicking tail high as it goes down range, but it is hitting just a little low and weak at 20 yd. when bare shaft group shooting with fletched shafts.  I am wondering if I should be trying to get more of the tail height flight tuned out and if I have not tried a high enough setting.

[Orion]

Are you saying that your nock is set 1/8 to 3/16 above perpendicular to the shelf?  If so, that is very low and your shaft is probably kicking off the shelf and thus coming out nock high.  I shoot woodies, which are usually thicker than carbons and aluminums, and nock about 9/16 to 5/8 above the shelf, sometimes even higher for some bows.  I would think somewhere between 3/8 and 1/2-inch above the shelf should work for carbons, maybe even higher.  Good luck.

[Zmonster]

I shoot carbons, and mine is set at 7/8

Regards

[McDave]

The usual way to measure nock height is by using a bow square.  There is a mark on the bow square that indicates perpendicular (90 degrees) from the shelf, which is usually the bottom mark.  We measure up from there to the bottom of the string nock.  For many bows, placing the string nock where the bottom of the string nock is 1/2 - 5/8 above square works well for split fingers, assuming we are nocking our arrows with the arrow nock under the string nock.  We fine tune this by bare shaft tuning, which is a whole 'nuther subject.

[robtattoo]

Mine are all between 1/2" & 5/8" & shoot the skinny carbons. If I were to go to the thicker 5/16 shafts, I'd certainly want to adjust my nocking point a little higher.

As Orion says, chances are you're getting a false reading as the arrow hits the shelf & kicks back up. 1/2" is usually a good starting point.

[James Wrenn]

It all depends on how much pressure you put on what fingers when you shoot.There is no set range that works for everyone.Mine tends to be lower than many.On longer bows I can get good flight with the arrow 90 degrees off the string.I do bump the arrow up about 1/8" most times to allow for bad releases but never need to go higher unless it is a short bow where finger pinch is coming into play.Even then it is still pretty low.jmo

[Whip]

For bare shafting, if you start with a nock too high and work your way down you will eliminate the possiblity of getting false readings by having the arrow kick up off the shelf.

[Bill Skinner]

Mine are 3/8 to 7/16.  I shoot CE, Gold Tips, wood and Aluminum.  I also shoot the skinny carbons, Axis and Beeman, with the same nock point.  Bill

[xtrema312]

I am shooting 5/16" carbon shafts.  I have one of those screw in squares that uses the arrow insert and arrow shaft as part of the square and gives you measurements for nock point above the arrow nock.  So basically it works out that I am running one bow at ½” shelf to bottom on nock on string and one is closer to 5/8”.  I started out higher, but it was always bare shafting low like 6” or more at 20 yd.  Then I moved down until I was about average 2" bare shaft below fletched shafts at 20 yards.  As I went lower with the nock the bare shaft went back to shooting lower than that again so I thought I was in the zone.  However, I never got it to shoot bare shafts higher than fletched shafts or really fly so flat I didn’t see some kick.  I got to thinking maybe I never got height enough and just had various degrees for shelf interference, or missed the sweet spot on the way down.  I also seem to be able to get a bare shaft in the group with a good amount of shaft whip due to, I think, high FOC.  

Today I got thinking that I also cant the bow a good amount and some of my low bare shaft hits and shaft tail high whip I see is a little bit of the week spine flex.  My compound tuning allowed low tare or bare shaft high hits due to the rest types and I am thinking now that probably a shelf on a trad bow may not really allow me to get I high hit bare shaft or at least not very high.  So maybe I am ok.  

I have had some issues with rest wear at the outside edge.  I thought it was stiff shafts running the feathers on the rest, but then got to thinking maybe I am too low on my nock point and I better look into that.

[McDave]

If you have a high drawing arm elbow, it can cause your forefinger to press down on the arrow nock, and bow the arrow downward slightly at full draw.  The rebound from this can cause a persistent nock high that can't be eliminated by string nock placement.  This can also be caused by not quite coming to full draw with good back tension, where your drawing forearm doesn't quite get in allignment with your arrow at full draw.

You can look in the mirror or have someone else observe whether your drawing arm forearm is in line with the arrow at full draw, both viewed from above and from the side.  This will help your accuracy in general, not just the nock high problem.  Another indication is whether your hand moves directly back and away from the arrow on release, as it should, or whether it moves to the side, as it will if you release before you come to full draw.

[Bill Carlsen]

I think the bare shaft is the way to go. I get about 10 feet from the target and shoot a bare shaft straight at it. If it hits nock high I need to lower the nock point, and vice versa if it hits nock low. I keep moving it until it goes in perfectly straight.

[xtrema312]

I worked on them a little more.  My LB is fine and barely has a hint of nock high in flight.  I raised it and worked down.  I ended up back where I started.  My curve was already higher than the LB, but I raised the nock quite a bit, and it seems to like that.  I am not sure and would have to check, but the curve is probably getting close to 1/4" higher nock set than the LB.  It is also 4" shorter than the LB.  I will have to check my arm again.  All the times I have been checked I was told my form was good, but maybe I am doing something a little different with the curve.  It is heavier than what I have been shooting in the past.

[Dave Bulla]

"So basically it works out that I am running one bow at ½” shelf to bottom on nock on string and one is closer to 5/8”. I started out higher, but it was always bare shafting low like 6” or more at 20 yd. Then I moved down until I was about average 2" bare shaft below fletched shafts at 20 yards. As I went lower with the nock the bare shaft went back to shooting lower than that again so I thought I was in the zone. "

Sounds to me like you are in the zone like you said.  Like others said, 1/2 to 3/4 inch is about the norm and you are pretty well in that area.  What I would do would be to try some different point weights and see what you get then.  Also, realize that most trad bows are not cut past center and the arrow has no choice but to flex around the riser.  If you are canting your bow quite a bit, it can give a tail high and not really be an issue.  Try holding dead vertical to see what happens.  

You want your final setup to show a little weak spine and when you fletch them they'll be just right.

I've bare shaft tested all my bows but don't really get too into it.  Just get it where they hit where you're aiming and don't worry too much about a little tail high or left then fletch them up and go shoot.  Of course, I've had arrows go almost sideways in flight and nose dive..... something like that has to be fixed.

[Bjorn]

3/4 works for me........I shoot tapered woodies.