Tip weight when bareshafting?

[Shleprock]

I got some Grizzlystiks I am finally getting around to working on. This is the first time I will be bareshafting. I've read alot from Dr. Ashby, but don't understand the starting tip weight. I bought a test pack of field tips from 3 rivers. If your cutting the arrow and changing the spine then what exactly is the tip weight supposed to be? If you have an idea of what bh and weight you want up front. It seems I would want to have at least close to the weight I want then cut the arrow to tune. I'm going to re-read the printouts I have tonight. Is this line of thinking close or am I way off base. Thanks, Garlin.

[katman]

Field tip the same weight as broadhead is recommended. Start full length with proper point weight on a bareshaft and fletched then trim to tune, I like to tune bareshaft slightly weak to account for the stiffening effects of the fletch. Final tune with broadhead and fletched field tip arrow. Cut grizzlysticks from the point end.

[robtattoo]

Spot on.

Sort out what weight you want up front, screw it in, shoot it & then adjust your arrow length to suit!  :D

[Shleprock]

I have my nock point set for up and down. I did shoot a couple times with the weight I think I want up front. With full lenght shafts they were obviously shooting right. Start cutting leaving slightly weak for fletching. I guess you run into a problem it will be your arrow getting to short? Then the weight up front or on the back can help finish the tune without cutting the arrow any more? I have the problem of trying to figure everything out befor I start. I just need to get my chores done tomorrow and try it.

[Richie Nell]

I like to tune an arrow using head weight instead of arrow length.  
For instance, if my draw is 30 inches then my arrow is going to be 30.75 inches.  (I just don't want an arrow any longer than it has to be.)  Then I get the correct size arrow that would be start out too stiff at 30.75 inches w/125-145 grain field point. Then....

I already know that I would like to end up with well tuned arrow with a 250 to 300 grain head. I then simply add weight to the front little by little with 175, 200 and 250 grain field points. By doing that I can watch the arrow weaken itself back to the middle until it is "straight as an arrow."  
That is just another way to get the arrow you want.
Richie

[Shleprock]

Thanks Gents. I'll try to post my results. Garlin.

[Yolla Bolly]

Shleprock----While you are testing, you can hold the threaded inserts in the shaft  with a small strip of plastic wrap (eg Saran wrap) rather than glue.  I cut a strip slightly wider that the diameter of the insert, about an inch long, then fold over the back of the insert as I shove it into the shaft.  It has held while pulling shafts from  hay, foam and bag targets.

Also, are you aware that Grizzly Stiks have a differential spine?   --you need to roll and mark them for nock orientation before you start fletching.

[Mo. Huntin]

That is an awesome tip Yolla Bolly that I will be trying out very soon.  I love tradgang.

[katman]

I will also add that once you have the length correct with the grizzly sticks cut the others, glue in inserts then shoot them all bare shaft BEFORE you fletch. Sometimes you are just a little off on getting the stiff side oriented correctly and can fine tune by twisting the nock. I will also do this on any new shafts grizzly sticks or whatever, it just makes sure they are correct.

[Shleprock]

Ok you have to be a little more in depth about differential spine and stiff side oriented please.

[Yolla Bolly]

The stiffness of the shaft is different depending on which "side" is oriented to the bowstring.  Just like a wood shaft spines differently if the grain is parallel or perpendicular to the string.
I mark the spine on the new shafts, but my method requires the services of a helper.  You need a flat table top, a foam pad (a mouse pad works) and a marking pen ( I use a metal cased, fiber point paint pen from an art supply store).  I place the pad near the front edge of the table, and face along that edge with the pad to my left.  I place the point end of a shaft on the pad, with the nock end projecting to my right, elevated at about a 45 degree angle, supported by the side of my right index finger, which is held straight and parallel to the floor.  I then apply downward pressure to the mid-point of the shaft with my left middle and ring fingers, putting a slight bend in the shaft.  Using the shaft logo as a reference, I use the left middle finger to roll the shaft 90 degrees (the pad keeps the point end from slipping, rather than rolling).  I roll it back and forth, detecting the slight difference in spine stiffness.  When I am satisfied that the weakest spine side is up, I have my brother carefully mark that side up near the nock, keeping the pen as close to vertical as possible. When the paint is dry, I orient the nock so the marked side is "up", so that the weaker spine is parallel to the string and the stronger spine is perpendicular. Then I have the arrows fletched in that orientation. ( A couple of posters have reported that they  have solved a "too stiff" situation by orienting the weak spine side perpendicular to the string.)
I hope this helps.

[katman]

The grizzly sticks have a seam and the so as posted you must find it, the stiff side, and orientate it perpendicular to the string for consistent spine. My method is similar to YB except I mark the stiff side, which you can easily feel as you roll over the seam and line the nock up with it.

[Richie Nell]

That is one reason I shoot aluminum.