Arrow ? for a light bow...

[BEN]

I have 2 younger sisters who are wanting to start some trad. archery and wanted me to make them a light bow. I made a bamboo backed ipe longbow that ended up 42# @ 28". It is a R/D but not center shot.
Dad wants to get them aluminum arrows and asked what I thought they would need. I shoot carbon and some wood so am not very good at gauging aluminum shafts. Question is: what would be a good shaft size to start off testing; not too light for durability reasons, but not logs either?

thanks..................
ben

[Mo. Huntin]

I wonder how far they will be drawing it back?  O.L. has a shaft chart for aluminum on his website.

[vermonster13]

What are their draw lengths?

[Dick in Seattle]

I'm going to assume that as younger sisters their draw length is most likely shorter than 28".   Not a totally safe assumption I know, but...

I build light bows, some without any shelf at all.   If I'm right, they would probably be drawing in the area of 35# on your 42#@28 bow.   On my bows in this weight range, I use 1616 or 1716 Eastons, cut to 27 or 28", and with 60 gr pts on the 16's and whatever point works on the 17's, which have screw in inserts.   Within that range, I can pretty much get good flight with my 25" draw on any of my bows from 28 to 32#. My shelved bows are not center cut.   On the ones with no shelf (shoot off your hand, around the full riser), it takes the lighter arrow and/or heavier point.   One the lighter arrows I use 4" fletching and on the heavier ones, 5".  Hope that helps.

[BEN]

Draw length for the girls : 25 and 26"
Also they would be shooting off and antler tip as a rest...

[vermonster13]

Dick's advice is solid.

[BEN]

Dick,

The 1716's are heavier or just bigger around?

Probably go with that so we can more easily adjust point weights with the screw inserts...


Thank you,
ben

[vermonster13]

1716s are heavier mass and spine.

[Dick in Seattle]

I like the 1716's for my "Heavier" bows because of the availability of screw ins.  Tips can be had from 65 gr up and if you start at longer than you need, you can generally get a match.  I really do shoot some very light bows, down to as little as 17#, so I do a lot of work with 1416, 1516 and 1616 as well.   Once you get used to using them, light bows are a delight.  They are quite capable.   I've shot a number of 3D's with 17# and done well.   They're also fantastic for starting folks out, especially the ladies, without making them feel intimidated.   Also, they are soooo easy on the body. All you guys shooting moose bows because 'someday' you might get to hunt a moose, think about it.   If you want to shoot at least 30 in your 80's, shoot 45 in your 45 in your 40's.

"Shoot lighter... shoot longer."

[BEN]

So..................the 70# bamboo backed ipe bow I just finished is slightly over-kill?        
You are right though , Dick!!
I only wanted a heavy self-bow to easily shoot the heavy carbons I shoot out of my 62# recurve so that during this coming hunting season and elk hunt--if something happens to my go-to bow----i'm not just flat out of luck!  

thanks for the arrow help!!

[Dick in Seattle]

Ben, I wouldn't want folks to think I'm single minded.   I'll admit that your 70# self-bow is a wonderful weapon.   If you drop your arrow, you an club the elk to death!  8^)

Seriously, there are a lot of guys who can shoot heavy bows on a hunt.  And there are some guys who shoot them all the time.   I know the arguments, but the body is finite, and that "all the time" argument really makes me wince.  It's like the old ad, "Pay me now, or pay me later."   I see threads all the time from older guys who have blown out their shoulders or have other problems, or who are selling their bows because they can't shoot any more.  I have the same problems, though mine aren't from shooting heavy bows, since I really only started 5 years ago.  I've gotten really interested in what you can do with light bows... 3Ding with 35#, hunting with  45 or 50.   However, all that said (or preached), go get that elk!  Any way you can  :^)