Bar top epoxy for knives

[Dustin Waters]

Has anybody got any experience on finishing knife handles in bar top epoxy finish.  If you do any advice you can give me would be greatly appreciated.    Im interested to know what kind of finish I could expect from it and Can i just brush it on or dip it or what?  Thanks in advance.

[vermonster13]

Bar top epoxy is a great finish. Tougher than just about anything and gives a great gloss coat.

[Sneakypete]

Dustin -- I've used bar top epoxy for its intended purpose, and it is ideal for that. However, it will scratch (as I suppose any epoxy will) and will get brittle and crack under some circumstances. Since I have it on hand for bowbuilding, I use SmoothOn for knife handles, antler and wood, and love it. You can mix up any amount at once -- it's a paste rather than runny liquid. It dries clear and hard and somewhat shiny, but can easily be taken to satin with 220 grit. Doesn't much matter how you put it on, as it flows out evenly.

[OconeeDan]

Dustin, I have recently discovered how nice a finish you can get with Devcon clear epoxy, found at Walmart in hardware for about 2 bucks.  It is called 2 ton clear, by Devcon, in the syringe type gizmo.  Squirt, mix, and dab your rubber gloved finger in it, and wipe on the knife handle. Hang it handle side down, and in 10 minutes, wipe the drip off...it will heal itself.  Ends up wet-looking glossy.  I prefer satin, so wet sand it a few seconds with wet/dry 1000 grit sandpaper, then buff back out with rubbing compound until the sheen suits you.
The finish is VERY hard.
Dan

[Holm-Made]

Dan, most people dilute it 5 parts acetone to 1 part epoxy.  It is called the Massey finish.  Jay Massey made it popular.  I use 3 coats for knife handles.  Chad

[LAR43]

Ya gotta watch those quick set epoxies. They start to turn yellow after a year or so. 'Course if the yellow helps the wood look better then go for it!
On a knife that you're gonna get bloody, a high gloss finish usually isn't the most desirable as your hand's prolly gonna slip somewhere during the process & you're gonna end up with a handful of blade even if there's a finger notch in it.

Larry

[Straitshot]

Sorry, should have read all the answers. They are better than the one I attempted.

[Dustin Waters]

Just curious... is there anything else out there?  Ive noticed that the 2Ton looks awesome on the antler portion of the handle just from the run off from the glue up.  It does seem to pick off pretty easy though.  Im worried about getting a nick in it then having it start to peel.  I suppose if that happens it wont be for quite sometime.  I think Ill give that bar top a try and see how it goes.  I might test the two side by side on a scrap section of dowel rod.
For all you experienced knife makers ive got another question.  Ive got a bird hunter out there that shot his first goose with a leg band on it.  He wants the band incorporated into the handle.  os my question is if I use a hard wood dowel to fill the center of the band and drill through it how can I shape the handle without scratching the begesis out of the band?  Anyone got an suggestions?  You are guys are the ones with all the answers so lets here em?

[jdupre]

Dustin, the trick is to fit the band onto a piece of wood that is bigger than the OD of the band. You fit the band up to a tenon on the handle and them carefully scribe a line all the way around onto the bigger shoulder. Then remove the band and grind down to the scribed line. With a little trial and error, you should be able to make a seamless fit.

[jgbennett6]

Dustin, if i were you, i would think about opening the band, and laying it flat, then in-set it into the side of the handle, i think that would look pretty cool. As far as finish goes for knives, i dont use epoxy. I have found the ones i have tried became brittle, if you use stabalized wood then you dont really need a finish, but i usually use 4 coats of Teak oil to seal, the 3 coats of spar, or true oil