Tuning Carbons - Glueing inserts- Cutting

[Burnsie]

Working on tuning some carbons and need to shorten the shaft a little at a time to get to the correct stiffness.
Do you guys use something like hot melt glue to teporarily glue in the inserts so they can be removed easily while going thru the shortening process?  I was using Superglue, but it takes a considerable amount of heat to get them out each time, and usually causes the carbon inside to unravel and pull out with the insert and then the shaft needs to be cut back quite a
ways anyway.

[bigbuckmalik]

Thats how i go about it. Some guys use hot melt only even when they get them where they want em. I personaly switch since i've had inserts come out with hot melt after a while. I'm sure it was my fault, but i still switch.

[geno]

I use seran wrap. It was something I learned here and it works great. Been using it all week. A 1/4" at a time on carbons makes a big difference.
On the wrap just push them in on a hard surface and I put the tip in a vice and they pull out easy. When I get them where I want I use epoxy to put them in. G

[Stone Knife]

While I'm tuning I hold the inserts in temporary with a small piece of plastic wrap, like saran wrap. It takes up enough space to hold it in for as long as you need it to. But for a permanent hold this is what has worked the best for me after three years of experimenting with different glues and techniques. After cutting the shaft to a predetermined length, I rough up the inside of the shaft with a piece of emery cloth or a rifle bore brush, then I clean the shaft and insert with MEK or you can use acetone use a Q tip on the inside. I have pieces of 1/4 dowel cut to 1 1/4" long ( take a shaft with you to the hardware to find a size that works for your shafts. I then dampen the dowel inside of the shaft and insert with water, I apply gorilla glue on the dowel and push it in the shaft flush, then cote the insert with the same glue and push that in till it stops. clean off the excess from the shaft and stand it up insert down till it dries. This will give some of the toughest arrow out there.

[R H Clark]

I just cut all mine from the nock end.

[p1choco]

Another recommendation for plastic wrap.  In a pinch, use sandwich baggie, but it's a little thicker.  I was surprised how well it holds in an insert.

[JRY309]

I use the saran wrap method too,works great for tuning.

[pooahl]

Tune bare shaft and cut the tail end down, like R H said. Get them flying well without feathers and you're all set to fletch. This has always worked for me.

[Shleprock]

Some brands of arrows have to be cut from the tip end only. I use seran wrap too. Inserts are threaded at 8 x 32. I took a flat piece of metal 1 inch wide by 3 inches long about 1/8 inch thick. Drilled and tapped a hole in the middle. Thread it into the insert and pull it out. I collect useful things in the barn. My wife calls it junk. found a scrap piece of metal, a cordless drill, and a 8 x 32 tap. Was done in 15 min. An 8 x 32 is a standard screw that goes in an electrical box to hold a light fixture up. If you don't have a tap just drill a hole and put a nut on the back side.

[Burnsie]

Sleprock,  you beat me to it.  I am working with AD Traditional and Grizzly Sticks.  Both are tapered and need to be cut on the point end only.
The Saran wrap idea sounds great -  thanks guys!

[LKH]

I just got done pulling a bunch of aluminum inserts from CX' arrows and what I do is heat a field tip red hot, then grip it with pliers and screw in while pulling out.  It helps if there are two of you.

What this does is allow the glue to get the heat before it has time to affect the carbon laminate.  I also stand by the sink with cold water running and put the shaft under the water the moment the insert pops.  This even works well with super glue.