Adjusting brace height technique

[portugeejn]

What technique do you use to adjust your brace height for the "sweet spot"-assuming a Flemish twist string:  

Do you start low and increase to the high side of the range, or start on the high side and untwist to the low end?

And how much do you twist/untwist at a time?  1/2", 1/4", 1/8", 1 turn, 2 turns????

With or without silencers or brush buttons attached?

As I am still fairly new to all this (just a couple years) With all the experience out there, I am wondering if there is a better/easier/faster way than what I am doing now.  Thanks.

Ron

[jacobsladder]

i would personally start on the low side and work my way up with out silencers...if you can get it shooting shock free and quiet without silencers then it should be very silent with silencers...

remember a higher brace height will cause a arrow to act weak

lower brace height will cause arrow to act stiff..

good luck.

[30coupe]

I do about the same thing as jacobsladder, but I've never changed the brace height enough to have a noticeable effect on spine. Most bowyers will tell you the brace height range for their bows, which is normally only about one inch. It is pretty rare that you need to go outside this window, though it will happen once in a while.

How many twists depends on the string material and number of strands. Fewer strands take more turns to move the same amount as a fatter string. Fewer strands also add speed and (in general) a quieter shot.

I usually start at the lowest recommended brace height and raise in quarter inch increments until I get pretty close to where I want to be (quiet). Then I may move up-down an eighth to see if the change makes a difference. Normally it won't make much difference, so 1/8" either side of the "sweet spot" usually works just fine.

Hope this helps.

[Hud]

With a new bow, I will set it close to what the manufacturer's recommendation is, to see how it feels and sounds; to set the nock point, and watch how the arrows react, from 10 yards to 30 yrds. I may take the silencers off and shoot some. Invariably, will reset them closer to the recurve. No brush buttons with silencers. Next stage is to lower the string, so the feathers just touch the sight window and begin testing. Increase the twists by 5 then reshoot, following pretty closely to what Jacobsladder outlined. Prefer to keep it as low as possible based on grouping, feel and sound. The string should have 1.5 twist per inch at the final point, which may mean a new string. I shoot one string then keep it as a spare and breakin a second. I may try a heavier string if I not satisfied with the original. Usually try different arrows, spine and weight and almost never end up with something completely different than the norm.

The longbows are easier, nocking point and as low as possible so the feathers touch the handle. Rarely, do I end up changing it much. I'll spend time shoot shooting different spine and weight arrows. Usually, no silencers, possibly a heavier string.

[George D. Stout]

You will find a brace that you prefer, but I start on the lower side and just twist until it works.  I don't have a mathematical formula regarding twists; I twist the thumpin' string until it suits my brace.  I start with a string 3" shorter than the bow.  I only add silencers after it is all set, and never had tuning problems doing that.  Personal preferences must enter into the equation for final brace.  But remember, you aren't building a watch, you are setting brace height on a bow.

[portugeejn]

Thanks all!

[jacobsladder]

all these fine folks are giving great info.... one thing i have found on sizing a string when ordering that has worked extremely well for me....once you find your optimal braceheight with old string.... say 7.5".... i take it down 1/2" say to 7...measure the string with the bow strung from tip of loop to tip of loop.....order your string at that length.... when you string your bow up with the new one..you should only have to travel a 1/2"...so twist it up to your 7.5" brace height...this has worked well for me to size my string.... If your having to travel a full inch to achieve braceheight ..your string is too long...IMHO....good luck

[Bob L.]

Is your draw past 28" seems like bows like a higher brace if you draw farther back than 28. ex: I draw 32" and I am almost peaked out on what the bowyer recomended, he said because of my long draw. I usually twist the string 2-5 twists and reshoot starting on the low side working my way up.

[redfish]

Go read this.
 http://www.meta-synthesis.com/archery/archery.html