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Author Topic: Trouble Bare Shafting  (Read 536 times)

Offline razorback

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  • Posts: 2166
Re: Trouble Bare Shafting
« Reply #20 on: September 24, 2009, 02:09:00 PM »
Yep. Looks like if I go to 150gr heads + 38gr inserts and reduce the shelf width as much as possible, I should be well into the ball park. If I up it to 175gr heads then I have a litle more leeway with the shelf. Have some room with the nock point and brace height as well. May come together yet.
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

Offline Mike Brockner

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  • Posts: 46
Re: Trouble Bare Shafting
« Reply #21 on: September 24, 2009, 05:00:00 PM »
Get some steel addapters, they weigh in at 75 and 100 grains.  The long addapters (100) grain and a 125 grain field point or broadhead should do it.
Use the 75 grain addapters with heavier broadheads.

Forgot to say that these are 5 degree tapered so you will have to use hot melt to attach the field tips and broadheads.

I used Stu's calculator to come up with my setup and it worked great.

Once you get the right spined arrows, your arrow flight will improve and your groups will get tighter.

 :)

Offline razorback

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  • Posts: 2166
Re: Trouble Bare Shafting
« Reply #22 on: September 24, 2009, 09:08:00 PM »
Thanks Mike. I am trying some of Dr Asbury and O.L's perfect arrow internal footings to see how they work. Combined with the aluminum inserts they are about 105-110gr. That coupled with 150gr tips, is geting me close. I had to shorten the length of the arrow for the calculator to 29 to get the acurate reading. Only put them in with hotmelt so will be able to get them out if they don't work. I like the idea of these anyway so hopefully they will work.
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

Offline Mike Brockner

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  • Posts: 46
Re: Trouble Bare Shafting
« Reply #23 on: September 25, 2009, 09:51:00 AM »
Tony,

Try them full length before you cut, the calculator will get you close, you can fine tune once you have the head weight where you want it.  Its easier to change the tip weight and change the center cut first and then cut your arrows if necessary.

Remember that everything that you add or take off will effect the flight, this included string silencers, brace height, feathers, etc.

I found that if I compare bare shaft to fletched shafts first, i know if i am close.  Once both types of arrows group togeather I switch to fletched arrows with field point and broadheads.

Offline razorback

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  • Posts: 2166
Re: Trouble Bare Shafting
« Reply #24 on: September 25, 2009, 04:11:00 PM »
Mike.
these arrows are so stiff I don't think I will ever get to the point of cutting them, 30 1/2 is where they will stay I think. I havn't had a chance to shoot much since I put the internal footings in. I am hoping that these will work, though I believe I may have messed up the calculations and that they have effectively shortened the arrow more than I thought.

  :knothead:  Ahhh, now I understand your comment. I am not cutting the arrows, the internal footings effectively shooten the arrow by stiffening the front section.
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

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