I have never had any trouble sharpening them with just a file and oil stone, and a leather strop. The way I sharpen knives and broadheads is way past that though. I usuallyl feather the edge, taper it that is, back 1/8-1/4, depending on the original grind of the knife/head. I start with a upright sanding belt, fine grit, slow speeed and then proceed to my buffer.I use a 3/4 horse Baldor Buffer,3800rpm, 240, 400 and 555 grit compound on cloth wheels. This will clean a knife, brass bolsters and such to look like new, doesnt hurt the steel in any way, since you are not getting it hot. This is the set up I use when hot bluing rifles and shotguns, also the way a lot of surgical instruments are sharpened, been doing this for about 30 years now. I have sharpened knives/broadheads so sharp, if you try to feel the edge,rub your thumb across, which you shouldnt, you will cut yourself because the edge is so fine, you cant feel it and when you try harder, you end up getting cut. I cant honestly remember how many people have had to have a stitch or two over the years, because I go in the back of the shop, and in about a minute or two,return with a hunting knife done. So they give it the thumb test because they know this cant be sharp and end up with a cut. I put a new bevel on most broadheads the same way, been doing it so long it is second nature. Not tooting my horn, just trying to explain the process I use, as many of you have PMed me asking that I post this. I get my wheels and compound from Brownells Gunsmith supply, great people to do business with if any of you want to try this yourself. It is a little pricy to start up and IS NOT AS EASY AS IT SOUNDS LIKE! I have taught several people how to do this, and had just as many who cant get the hang of it. If any of you want help in this, Pm me and will go into more detail. Thanks, Sam.
Topic: broadheads (Read 208 times)
