Wood Arrow Recommendation Needed

[sgrogg]

Been thinking about trying some woodies out of my Horne Mountain Bow recurve.  It's 60", 51@28 (I draw about 28.5").  What spine do ya think I should start with?

[ranger 3]

I would start with some 60/65 cut to 30" and go from there.

[Sneakypete]

I'd go with 55/60 at 30" for starts, assuming 11/32 cedars, straight shafts. But it's a rough go to buy a dozen arrows pig-in-poke at current prices. Don't you have a dealer or woody-shooting friend within reach who can let you shoot some bare shafts at various weights? So much also depends on the speed/powerstroke of the individual bow. General advice is go 5 pounds higher than your draw weight. But you're drawing longer than norm, so perhaps ranger has it right.

[Bjorn]

You are likely using a non Dacron string in that bow, and if so add another 5# on top of that. Modern bows with risers cut to center and past, need stiff arrows. I shoot 70# woodies out of 50# bows that are cut to center. My 49# Adcock takes 75# wood arrows. Go to the Morrison site and look in the tuning section, there is a simple calculator there for spine-it works. And 3Rivers has a tuning pack of 3 different spine arrows-if I am not mistaken. Woodies rule!

[sgrogg]

Yes, it's a FF string and the bow is relatively fast.  Thanks for the suggestions!

[Ted Fry]

I would recomend a 60-65 with a 125 gr. point , if you use a 160 gr add 5#.
Like Bjorn said most companies are happy to work with you as far as a weight rance test group .
This is a good way to go as you find what works for you rather than others.

[Wudstix]

I shoot heavy broadheads 145-160 grain and have found that 10 pounds about bow weight is about right.

[Tree man]

Psst guys, Speed ain't got much to do with it, Degree of centershot and point weight are the most important variables...along with the deviation from 28inch length and actual draw weight...and the evervarying personal form and release. I'm with Sneakypete. If you use 125 grain points start with 55/60s cut to 30 inches. when you get 'em trimmed back to about 29 inches you'll probably be getting good flight.BTW, I think bareshafting causes more tuning woes than it helps---finger releases are seldom clean and consistent enough for most guys to really use bareshaft tuning efficiently. Shooting fletched arrows and watching the flight and impact point has worked well for generations.

[Bjorn]

To each his own-right? There are lots of ways to get this right, and sometimes wrong too. Personally, and just my experience,  bareshafting saves me a lot of time and effort. I do the calculations to get in the ballpark, and then bareshaft to confirm. Why start making beautiful arrows unless you selected the right shaft to begin with? 5in fletches hide too many sins!

[Shawn Leonard]

I would shoot 65-70# cut to 29-1/4" bop. with 125 grain point. I say this as I had tyat very same bow, maybe not yours but one with those specs. they flew like darts. Remember with wood add 5# of spine for every inch over 28"s and at least 10#s for a high performance recurve. I also like a slight weak bareshaft as it will stiffen a tad once dipped and fletched, so 65-70 would be darn close. Also Treeman is correct about bareshafting thru paper. Use point of impact as on OL Adcocks site. I assure you will be way weak with 55-60s even cut to 28.5"s. Shawn

[Shawn Leonard]

I should say that Bjorn has it darn close. I see a lot of guys shoot and too me most have terrible flight. Do they hit what they shoot at, yes but if ya want to see nothing but a tight ball going at the target use OLs method of bareshafting. Shawn

[JEFF B]

well said only way to go.      

[jpw]

55-60


jpw

[jonesy]

Scrog, call whispering wind arrows, the arrowsmith is knowledgable, and helped me a great deal, althought he will probably give you the same info. the folks here told you, it always helps to get different opinions on things, especialy when arrows are so exspensive. "watch your top knot" Jonesy