Hardwood (Hickory) vs. Cedar

[Wudstix]

Is there any difference in spine between these two woods?  I have heard a couple stories.

[SCATTERSHOT]

I don't think so. Spine is spine, whether it's wood, aluminum, carbon, or rebar. You might have heard that the hardwoods require a slightly stiffer spine than cedar to make up for the weight, but IMO that's just picking nits.

I doubt that anyone could tell the difference. of course, I'm not the world's greatest shot, either, but that's my opinion.

[Wudstix]

I shoot 70-74# with a 160 grain head.  There are some Hickory I'm looking at that are 65-69# so I would probably have to shot lighter heads.

[Aaron F.]

Hickory needs more spine.  I shot 70 pound hickories out of a 55 pound bow (maybe this is 5 pounds different than the cedars I shot).  This was with a riser cut in a pretty traditional manner (not past center, or even close to center for that matter).  The math is that more weight is bending around the riser, to recover it takes more spine.  

If however the bow would be cut to center, or past center I would guess the effect would be much less.  Note thought that usually bows cut to center or past, shoot stiff spined arrows to begin with.   I've never shot hickory from my widow, but I'd guess the effect of spine would be less dramatic with it than my longbow.

Try them.  They are durable as all getout.  I didn't break many,the ones I did usually were direct hits on rocks, and even then they didn't always break. Try them, If they don't work, put some flu-flus on them and use the for close rock killing.

Aaron

[Joseph]

Hickory doesn't recover as quickly from paradox as cedar does and some people have found they need to go 5 pounds heavier in spine than cedar.  That being said I have not had to do that with my setup.  My bow shoots equal spine arrows the same.  I love hickory and maple arrows because of their durability.  I have some that I have been shooting for over 10 years now.  There has been worn out feathers replaced and and split meatal points replaced when a rock was hit but the shafts are still going strong.

[Wudstix]

My MOAB is center shot and the arrows I was looking at are lighter spine than the Cedar and Ash I shoot now.  It sounds like they will not work for me.  I have some tapered Maple to make up, but there is so little free time in my schedule, only been hunting one day for deer since the first weekend of October.  Did get an evening and 1/2 day to hunt pigs over Veteran's Day.

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Nichael    

[SCATTERSHOT]

You can use the lighter weight spine, just build out your sideplate with a leather lace or toothpick. Works like a charm.

Good luck!

[Bill Carlsen]

I made custom wood arrows for a number of years and used mostly ash and birch. Along the way I also made arrows from about every wood there is except for hickory. My experience, and I emphasize MY experience, is that almost any straight grained shaft from almost any wood will make an excellent arrow. Spine never seemed to be an issue regardless of what woods I used in regards to matching a set of arrows to a particular bow weight and draw length. About the only factor that could mess with an arrow's spine seemed to be the woods natural  "ability" to absorb moisture (hydrotropic).  It is very important to use properly cured shafts that have been finished in a hard, waterproof finish. Such shafts were also more difficutl to keep straight. Other than that, IMO, a 50-55# shaft is what it is regardless of the wood it is from.

[Don Stokes]

Bill, my experience matches yours. Theoretically the heavier wood needs a bit more spine, but I haven't seen it in the real world.