Carbons- What do I have?

[Don Stokes]

Background- About 15 years ago my ne'er-do-well cousin decided he wanted a bow. I arranged a good deal on one of Dan Quillian's Patriot TD recurves, 52# limbs, and made him some Superceder arrows to go with it. He passed away several years ago. This week I asked his son what had become of the bow, and he said it was in a storage room gathering dust, and I could have it! He brought it to me yesterday, and refused any money.

The bow had been left strung for years, and the FF string has stretched completely out, to the point I didn't even realize it was strung at first. It had a bow quiver attached (upside down!) with nine carbon arrows. The boy didn't know what had happened to the "home-made" arrows, as he called them.

I know absolutely nothing about carbon, being a 100% wood guy. They are marked "GAME TRACKER'S CARBON ARROWS, MODEL C1323" on one line, and "AFC V-MAX 2300" on the other line. Six of them have light-looking broadheads with blades that have small notches in them, like serrations. The arrows are 30" bop. I haven't weighed them or put them on the spine tester.

I'm willing to play with them, but don't really know where to start. Old dog, new trick. Will I need super-heavy points, or what?

[Old York]

Far as I know, all the carbon fibres run axial only, with no radial fibres for boosting wall strength. Your shafts should have outsert nocks, and outsert 8-32 adapters on the shaft front.

I have some of the 2300's and they seem strong. They spine out around 69 pounds, 'old' AMO measuring. They're skinny, O.D. is around 0.266", I find them hard to 'see' when shot.

If you don't have extra adapter outserts and nocks, you may be stuck with the current arrow length.

As far as point weight, I'd say bareshaft test with a wide range of point weights and take it from there...the 2300 is skinnier than a 1716 so your degree of 'centre-shot' may be new territory with respect to dynamic spine.

Don, I'm also wondering about safety, given what happened to that bow string. Were the shafts subjected to extreme heat, like 145º+ attic temps? Just a consideration...

[Don Stokes]

Tim, they are larger behind the point, so I guess that's outserts. The nocks appear to be mounted over the shafts, that is, the end of the shaft is inside the nock. I don't intend to buy anything to go with them, since this is just a lark for me. Like I said, I'm a 100% wood guy.

Cullen (the son) said they were in a storage room, so I doubt they were exposed to high heat. I have found hairline cracks in one nock. There's no telling what these arrows have been subjected to, knowing cousin Keith. He was unsafe at any speed, the Ford Pinto of the family. Both he and his brother died young from bad habits. REALLY bad habits. Their father is a recovered alcoholic and founded the local chapter of AA. Fortunately Cullen is a straight-shooter, figuratively speaking. His only vice seems to be dipping.

I had some strings from the same time period that stretched badly (oops, I mean "elongated", FF doesn't stretch       ), so I don't think that's significant.

[Old York]

Yup, you have 'outserts' for attaching the standard 8-32 thread points or screw-in broadheads, and the 'outside' nocks. If you're gonna shoot them, bend them and flex them strongly first, check for any disruption.

It's interesting how the carbon has gone from having reinforced ends by using outserts, to no reinforcement whatsoever, then to some companies now offering 'collars'. Also, I found one 2300 with a steel outsert...I threw on a 175 gr. field point and the FOC was WAY up there.

[Bill Carlsen]

For a 28" draw those arrows would probably be best suited for a bow in the mid 50's. I played with those arrows a bit and made quite a few for other fellows. Some guys really liked them and I am sure that someone on here would take them off your hands.

By the way, Don, those used to be called "pulturded" carbons. Had something to do with how they were made.

[Don Stokes]

Bill, didn't you mean "pultruded"? I seem to remember that term, from way back. On the other hand, I kind of like it your way...       The bow is 52#, so I guess whoever matched him up did it right.

I think the nocks will be too tight for my string, though. They also have vanes, which gives me the willies. I'm old-school, any departure from wood and feathers is obnoxious to me.

[Bill Carlsen]

Don: Sometimes my brain is going at a different speed than my hands. As I recall those shafts have all parallel fibers which meant that when they broke they would splint. They were very tough, however, and make great hunting arrows. I believe they are the type the Wensels use. They were the best "penetrators" I have ever used in a hunting scenario. I believe that Kingwouldbe on this site uses those shafts. He does real well with them.

[Don Stokes]

Good info, Bill. I was shooting with a friend who used carbons many years ago, and one of his blew up on the shot. It was like it vaporized- we couldn't find a whole piece. It was spooky, and that's one reason I've avoided them.

OK, I have a pretty good idea of what I have, now. Thanks to everyone for helping. Now I guess it's up to me.

[George D. Stout]

Pulturded.   I like that Bill.  I can use that in a discussion, I'm sure 8^).

Don...please be careful with those things.

[Brian Krebs]

I think I agree with George - Bill. That was one awful visual.    

[Konrad]

I would start fresh. There is no telling what was whacked or how many times. The composite "binder" will degrade and splinter after repeated shocks.

Break 'em and toss 'em so no one else will be tempted.

Wear safety glasses and use a hammer.

[Don Stokes]

They're long enough for tomato stakes, if I go with the bush varieties. Or maybe a blowgun? Darts made from toothpicks, a bait pile for the mice, hmmm...

B'lieve I'll just stick with my good ol' Superceder woods for my archery.

[Altiman94]

I've wanted to try carbons for some time now, but the 1916 legacys seem to fly well and I still have 16 left.

After I break or lose some more of those, ill see if I can find a carbon that will fly well.

[Pinelander]

Tomato stakes for sure. The nocks are too old and the shafts are too, for that matter. I wouldn't bother with them, too risky. Today's carbons are manufactured way better than those 15 years ago. I didn't like them back then because they broke (splintered) too easily, but that isn't the case nowadays.