CX Heritage - please help again

[saumensch]

I know i must be the 50000 guy asking but even with search i couldnt quite make it out.

As my money is a bit to short for long experiments id be happy if some of you might point me in the right direction, again.

Bow: 54 @ my 31.5 draw, recurve, cut to center

I wanna shoot CX heritages in full length (33"); with 125grain heads and 60 grain inserts i would get 543 grain in total, id like to have more but dont want to increase point weight and either dont want to fumble with ropes inside the arrow.

Is there a possibility?

I dont think i´d get 340s to fly well without heavier points and 60grain inserts are the heaviest avalaible in Germany.


And to complicate things even more, it seems i will receive a new bow soon, a Bob Lee TD Signature LB 62" 54@ 28 (aprox. 62 @my 31" ?!)

would i need the 250s or the 340s to fly good?

I dont think it possible but i would love to have the same arrow out of both bows.

Thanks for any help, i appreciate youre help so much!

Kind Regards

[Paul Mattson]

You could go with the the CX Heritage 250's.  Brass inserts come in 50 grn or 100 grn.  The 100 grn inserts will bring up your wt.  If you want more wt, you could use Gold Tips wt adapters they are 25 grns and are stackable.

If your wanting an arrow that will fly out of both bows take a look at Arrow Dynamic Traditionals.

[xtrema312]

Is the bow really cut to center?  I have had a few bows cut to center and some are not really.  They are cut to center at the back of the riser, but then have a radiuses riser face that is out past that.  For me that makes a difference.  Plus any strike plate material changes that.  What is the riser cut on the heavier bow you are getting?  As a guess I would say go with the 350's.  You can always build out the side plates to make them work.  Also you can add weight with something like a bullet behind the insert or a section of cut off insert behind the main insert.

[R H Clark]

I think because of your long draw the 350's will work best.Even at that I would try and bareshaft one or two with a regular insert before gluing them all up. If you need the heavier inserts you can later remove the aluminum ones.

[BobW]

no on the 350's...WAY TOO STIFF!

I was shooting  full length 250, and 225-250 up front.  Bow is 56#@32"... (I actually foot the carbon for additional length).

Play with the Dynamic Spine calculator by Stu Miller, then get some shafts.  Use the A&H tuning guide to clean it up.

BobW

[joevan125]

I shoot 50@30 full length heritage 150s with 125 grains up front and get great arrow flight. My PSA X widow is a tad heavier and the 250s shoot really well with the same set up.

Not sure if this helps you any but when i started out it was the information on this site that helped me.

Sometimes it was the little things that  help me put it all together.      

[R H Clark]

Bob
I believe you but a lot must depend on the bow.I shoot 30.5" 350's from a 55@ 28" PLX drawn to 29" with 190 points and an aluminum insert.

They bareshaft right with the fletched shafts out to 30 yards.

[metsastaja]

Not sure i got all the numbers right but your long draw has an impact.  I know Biggie shoots 350's and his draw is 32"


 

Here are the heritage specs

 

if you want to try the calculator you can get it at   http://www.heilakka.com/stumiller/  

Les Heilakka

[saumensch]

I just plaid around with the calculator and got the following result:

350s in 33" 125grain + 40 insert (TopHat) + 4" feathers + 14grain nockend makes a dynamic spine of 64,2

recurve (50#@28) required spine: 64,9

longbow (56#@28) required spine: 69,6

so i will build some of those for the recurve and then test if i can build the strike plate of the longbow out a bit and how that matches.

What you think?

Ohh, and yes you were right, the recurve isnt center cut but 1/16 out.

[xtrema312]

I find my bows like less spine than the calculator says.  Maybe it is me, but after a lot of bow tuning this year on a lot of different bows, I always end up to stiff based on the calculator.  Usually about 25-50 gr, more point weight gets me there or about 5# of spine correction.  I do love using it once I get the right arrow for the bow because I do find I can  change arrows and be real close on a new set-up.  

I have come to the conclusion that for me I am better off being a little on the weak side if I am going to miss it.  If you end up way to stiff then point weight is about all you can do other than a skinny sting, thinner strike plate, pull of the silencers and maybe drop the brace height.  If you are weak you can build out the side plate, shorten the arrow, go to an aluminium inserts, raise the brace, add a bow quiver, add bigger or more silencers........  
I run 8 strands FF, thinner strike plates and as small a silencer as I can so for me if I get to stiff about all I can do is add point weight.

[metsastaja]

I just measured my uncut CE arrows and they only measure 32.5 so unless something has changed you will have a hard time getting 33". Well I guess the insert and nock will add 1/2 inch so forget that comment.

I am also getting a different spine for a recurve [email protected] a draw of 31.5

o center cut with B50 = 67.9

o center cut with fastflight = 71.1

Did you down load the NEW 11-22-09 version

[hkmp5]

Hello Les,
Yes your numbers are correct for the bow requirement.

**Reminder to those using Open Office to run the calculator: The "0" center cut setting give a dynamic that is 5# too high.  It's a goofy open office thing only but something to be aware of.

[oldtimerbow]

I shoot cx300s with 250 grains up front with regular insert.They shoot good out of my Bob Lee longbow 57#@28". Arrows are cut at 29" and if I remember right are in the 530-540gr range with wrap and 3 5.5" feathers.

[saumensch]

thanksto all, i have a strating point now.

oldtimerbow, thanks for the info, my new bow will be a Bob Lee Signature LB 56# @28, with my longer draw i should be fine with a little less weight up front ( 33" but only 165 front)