Question about building out a shelf.

[Russ H]

I have Quinn Stallion 48.5 @ 28 that is cut 5/16ths past center. I want to shoot off the shelf and need to build the shelf out to center or 1/16 before center. This would mean building out 3/8ths. Question, would it be better to layer leather out that far or use something like a piece of tubing with a thin layer of material over it (like putting a matchstick behind it). The other option would be to install a plunger and build up the bottom of the shelf so the arrow would rest against it. I need some advise. Thanks. Russ

[Bjorn]

If it were me I would not go against the design of the bow-stiffer arrows tuned to your set up is the answer. JMHO

[Jesse Peltan]

5/16 past center is too far. I'd build out to 3/16 past center.  To do so I'd take a 1/4in dowel and split it so it's 1/8in wide.  Then super glue it above the contact part of the grip.  The contact point is the deepest part of the grip where the web of your hand contacts.  It' important that you install it there because the correct position will make the bow more forgiving to torque.  On top of the dowel I'd put a calf hair rest from 3 rivers. It's adhesive backed so it will install easily.  The calf hair and dowel method will put you between 3/16in past and 1/8in past center.  5/16 past center would line the edge of the arrow up with the center of the bow instead of 3/16 or 1/8 past which lines up the center of the arrow with the center of the bow.  If you're not sure what I mean by contact point of the grip look at ol's tuning pages. He has some pictures of raduised shelves that have the correct contact point.

[[email protected]]

Consider using thin sheets of balsa wood to build out the shelf.  You can go up the side of the riser as high as you want.  Its flexible and can be sanded to get it "just so".  You can tape it in place and then glue it down after everything is working for you.  

Then you can cover it with a thin piece of leather.

Bob

[Russ H]

Thanks guys. I was looking at the Stu's dynamic spine calculator and my bow at 1/8" past center with 27.5" draw length still spined out at 66.4#. I was trying to shoot 225gr up front. GT 55-75 would have to be cut to 28" with that up front to get close. I know i could go down in broadhead wt. to give me more leeway but I also thought I could build the shelf out more to shoot a little longer and weaker arrow.

[doowop]

Use a small piece of peep site tubing under velcro. Perfect.

[Jesse Peltan]

At 3/16 past you can use a GT 55-75 cut to 28 with a 14grain insert and a 215 grain point. At 1/8 past center you can use a GT 55-75 cut to 28 with a 14grain insert and a 225 grain point.  But remember everyone's bow is different and stu's calculator is just a starting point.  I suggest you try my method which will put you 1/8 - 3/16 past center. Then buy a field point test kit from 3 rivers and see what tunes best.  Also with the method I describe along with being more forgiving to torque the bow is more forgiving to spine weight issues.  If you do the same thing to the shelf the bow will also be more forgiving to nock height issues.

[Russ H]

Thanks, I know Stu's calculator is just a starting point I was just worried about starting that close to one end. I'll try that today if the monsoon stops and I have any daylight left.

[xtrema312]

I would go with the split dowel for sure, or cut diagonal on the corner off a piece of square edge wood trim to get a pyramid shape.  Some Velcro sheets will let you cut a nice wide patch of riser strike plate that will form around the dowel and stick the dowel to the riser without glue.  A little black sharpie work on the top of the dowel and it will blend in with the Velcro.  That or tapper the top of the dowel off some and do some cutting work to make the Velcro form back to the riser.

[BWD]

I use weed eater line, and sand a flat on one side.

[bshunter]

i like the weed eater idea.