I'm going to need more arrow, aren't I?

[jonathan creason]

I promise, one of these year's I'll stop with the newbie questions.  But as I've always heard, there's no such thing as a stupid question, just stupid people.

Anyway, as part of my swap last week the shop threw in a half dozen Axxis 340's (9.5 gpi).  I shot 125's with the wheel bow, so I've just stuck with that for the time being.  I'm shooting a PSE Blackhawk, 50lbs.

Right now the arrows seem to be flying really well.  They're fast and they hit the target straight, but I'm sure I'm not going to get great penetration with this set up.

I do plan to buy the tuning kit from 3 Rivers and tinker with some different weight points, but even if I go heavier there it's going to be hard to get up to 500+ total weight.

Anyway, should I ditch the arrows now, and if so do you have any recommendations on where to go?

[robtattoo]

In my opinion (& take that for what it's worth.....) them 340s should be waaaaay too stif for your bow. I know it ain't apples to apples, but I'm shooting around 63# bows & leaving 340s full length. Even then I need to get at least 300gn up front for them to bareshaft well. These arrows are weighing in at around 700gn!

Get yourself a few 100gn inserts & 200gn points & give 'em another try. I would bet that they're still too stiff.
How you're reading good, straight arrow flight with only 125gn points is beyond me.
However, if indeed they are flying well, you'll be fine with that setup! When I first started playing with carbons, I was shooting Easton Lightspeed 400s with the standard 26gn inserts & 145gn points (total arrow weight IIRC was 500gn) out of a 57# Pronghorn. See that goat in my avatar? That particular arrow/bow comination gave me a complete passthrough on the animal, taking out a shoulder-blade on the way through. With a 3 blade head.

You'll be fine  

[OS]

I agree on soft game (deer size and such) your set up should be fine.  That being said I have always gone for a heavier head even in a compound.  Most of what I shoot falls in the 230 - 260gr. range.  I like how it quiets the bow even more and hits like a ton of bricks!!  have fun with playing!  As a note the size of you chosen broadhead will efect your arrow spine as well as the weight, the lager the head the more spine you will need

[jonathan creason]

I wondered about the spine myself, but that's what the guy at the shop recommended.  Of course, I don't think they get many requests for setting up a recurve there, either.  I'd like to play with the brass inserts, but they used the standard insert glue to put the HIT inserts in.  Is there any way to get those suckers out without destroying the arrow?

[Jason R. Wesbrock]

I agree with Robtattoo regarding the spine. I shoot 340s pulling mid-upper-50s at 32".

[rvrbottomarcher]

I have tried to get HIT inserts out by using the drill bit trick (sliding a drill bit down the shaft from the nock end and swining it like a wip) and I swung and swung and swung until I darn near threw my back out and they didn't even budge.  There was no way they were coming out.

I shoot a #53 pound recurve and I use a 500 shaft with a total of 175grains up front.  I am no expert but I would say you are way over spinned and I think if you bareshafted the 340's you would find that more than likely you will have to go down in spine.
Good luck

[jonathan creason]

Thanks for the info, everybody.  I've got a couple of Gander Mtn. gift cards so I may try some lower spines and tinker around a little.  I can always sell the ones I don't want, I guess.

[GREASEMAN]

I agree with the 340's being waaaaay to stiff for 50#'s.I'd look at 500's also or the CX 150 Heritage with Brass insert.

[Buckwheaties]

Run Stu Miller's program.. It'll get you close..

[jonathan creason]

Originally posted by woodie4life:
Run Stu Miller's program.. It'll get you close..

Do you happen to have a link?

[lpcjon2]

Google is stu's spine calculator and then download it.

[lpcjon2]

Let me know what spine you need I may have a few different arrows laying around so you don't have to buy a test kit.

[Olin Rindal]

I would say there a little stiff. I shoot 340's cut to 29 1/2 with 200 up front out of a 70# long bow. Good luck with the search. The fun has now begun.
Olin

[Arwin]

If your not too attached to those arrows, throw them up on the classifieds.    

 Whats your draw length?  It could be an inch less than your compound draw length. We can help ya with arrow choice from there.

[jonathan creason]

Ok, using the clothespin-on-the-arrow method I'm drawing 26.5" to the front of the shelf.  These arrows are cut at 29.5", so I'm guessing I'm beyond extremely over spined.

I'll try Stu's calculator when I get to the office.

[jonathan creason]

I found Stu's program (and saved for future reference).  According to it if I go down to 400's at 29" with a 175 gn. point and 100 gn. insert I should be in the ball park.  That would give me a total weight of 545 gns. with 23.5% FOC.

I know it's just on paper, the real test will be how they perform, but how's that look for now?

[Arwin]

If your bow is 50@28, then you are drawing about [email protected], you may want a 28 inch arrow and probably a little lighter spine.  
 You could go with Goldtip 35/55's, Heritage 150, CX Terminator 45/60's, Easton Axis 500's or Beman ICS 500's. All these should handle your desired 175 grain point weight without adding brass inserts.

[rvrbottomarcher]

If I were you I would go with the 500's and start with them full length using your 175 point and go from there.

[Zach Mikita]

I shoot a 55# bow and shoot 500 spined arras that weigh 550 (mfx beaman) so you shouldnt have issues with finding an arrow that works for you.  I could shoot 400 spined arrows, but I havent found that I need to