What should I do?

[David Mitchell]

George....one old phart to another  

[Don Stokes]

True, George, but it takes some experience to get where you are. After many years of archery, bare shafting taught me something valuable, and it has been good for me. It shortens the tuning process and eliminates a lot of trial-and-error for the less experienced. My trial-and-error was mostly error.  

[blktail]

wisconsinteacher, interested in how your making out with all the suggestions. Were they of any help with your tuning?

[wisconsinteacher]

Tuning could be better.  I feel like I am spinning in circles.  It is hard for a rookie to get them to fly good with feathers on and even harder to get groups from the beginning of this adventure.  I hope that with time, I will get somethings figured out.

[Kenneth]

Wisconsinteacher,  As new as you are to the sport I wouldn't stress so much over tuning.  Get some 40/45# woodies and just practice shooting to improve your form and accuracy.  The only tuning I would do now if I were you is just to get my nock point set.  Once you've developed consistent form and accuracy then you can worry about getting fine tuned.

[blktail]

What Kenneth said. Keep at it bud it will get better.

[Pinecone]

Wisconsin...don't give up!  What is your draw length and what length are your arrows?  I was just down in the basement shooting my 46# @ 27" Black Widow recurve.  I was using GT 35-55 arrows cut to 29" with 50 grain inserts and 260 grain points.  So, getting them to tune properly meant putting 310 grains up front!
Conversely, when I shoot Vapor 2000 arrows, I shoot a 29" arrow with 225 grains up front.  The Vapor 2000 is a slightly weaker shaft than the GT 35-55.
Let me know what you are shooting now relative to length vs. your draw length and I'll see if I can help you.

Claudia