I cant the same amount all the time while tuning, and it doesn't make any difference in the left/right, up/down of the nock. I tune for a nearly straight-in nock at less than 10 yards, just the barest fudge nock high. After this process, my broadheads and field points shoot to the same point at all reasonable ranges, which is my objective. It's the method taught to me by Dan Quillian, and I've never found a need to alter it. It works, and I get clean, perfect arrow flight when I've done it right. In the field, if I need to make a shot with more or less cant, I compensate by aiming slightly left for more cant, and vice versa, shooting RH.
I have a full set of bare shafts set up with 125 grain points in various lengths that I made up when I was in the shaft business and regularly setting up customers at shoots. If I tune just slightly stiff with the 125's, 160's shoot perfectly. 190's will always require a full spine class increase, or a shaft an inch shorter. I don't shoot heads over 190 grains. My finished 28 1/4" arrows for my 50-60# bows are usually 600-650 grains, 10-12 grains/inch with 5" LW shield three-fletch, usually around 17% FOC. That's what shoots best for me, and penetration has never been a problem.
Within those limits, I tune my bows to shoot to the same point so I don't have to change my sight picture when I change bows and arrows. If a bow shoots differently from the others, I adjust spine and amount off-center until it shoots with the others and bare-shafts straight. I shoot the same length arrows regardless of my draw length, which varies by an inch or so depending on the bow handle design. It simplifies things, so I don't have to think when I shoot, no matter which bow I choose that day.