Economical way to get a .250 or 125# arrow?

[Soilarch]

Been playing with Stu's calculator.  If I'm using it right then a carbon .250 or 125# spined arrow is what I'm looking for.

Reason why is because I LOVE the way my 650-ish grain arrows fly out of my 45# kodiak.  The sound (or lack thereof), and the feel...it's just plain sexy.

I'm having trouble finding .250 carbons.  Tapered shaft offering are more $$ than I want to spend.  Double-shafting is the same story...plus it sounds like a headache waiting to happen.

Sooo....

Are there economical choices out there or will I have to "pay to play"?

I don't mind the loss of speed or the trajectory.

Of course, if the fact that I can't get a bow to shoot 9.5gpp as pleasantly as 13.5 is a tuning  issue please just tell me that.  I'm still learning...but I love shooting that little kodiak. (I'm LH and it's a rh...and it's not the strings...I make them all.  Have tried several on each of my bows.  Different strand count, up and down brace heights, even file open my nocks a little, nocking point and sideplates...I've tried everything I know of and I just cant make the heavier low 60s# shoot anywhere nearly as nice as that wrong-handed kodiak)  So I'm blaming gpp now.

[Reaper TN]

I've got some 2419 Easton shafts left over from my compound days.  Used to shoot an 80 pounder.
They are .268 spine and weight 14.6 gpi. I would sell em' cheap!

[tecum-tha]

What is your goal?
A 650 grain arrow for a 45# bow?
Where is the problem?
Who needs a 125# arrow shaft for a 45# bow?
Am I getting this right, that you shoot a RH bow with a lefthanded technique?

[fishnbum]

How about a fishing arrow?

[Paul Mattson]

I don't see how you can get a .250 to fly out of a 45# bow.  There are several ways to get to the wt you want. Brass inserts, wt adapters, wt tubes just to name a few.

[Soilarch]

We've got our words mixed up boys.  I'm sorry.

I LOVE the 45# bow with a 650gr arrow. (That's roughly 14gpp.)

I'd like to a higher gpp with my 63# and 62# bows. You start running out of options when you want to put 300gr up front AND leave them 31".

I can get the weight, with inserts and such, but then the dynamic spine is way too soft.

[pdk25]

It's not gonna save you alot of money if you have to put brass inserts in, but I've doubled up on hit inserts and found that they increase the spine of 300 spined axis arrows quite a bit.  Going with those 2419 arrows might be the ticket for you.  I also don't know what your true draw length is.  I have found that, for me, the old rules of an inch or more arrow hanging off of the shelf at full draw isn't necessary.  In fact, I prefer not to have more than 1/2 inch or so.  If I need to, I turn the nock so the broadhead blades won't hit my hand.  I have some 300 spine fmj arrows that are a little over 30 1/2" that shoot well with 300 grains up front from my rer td recurve.  It is 63 pounds at my draw and probably close to 11 gpp.  If I cut it down another 1/2-3/4, I'm sure that I could get away with more.

[Richie Nell]

Soilarch,
With 71#s, I use a GT Ultralight 300 cut to 30.75-31.25".  I use aluminum footings and put a minimum of 420 gr. head up to 480 gr head, 100 gr. insert and 50-100gr. footing. Thats 570-680 gr. up front.
 
Arrows weigh from 850-980ish gr. and fly like I likem.

The GT Ultralight or Ultralight Entrada 300 should work fine for your bow....IF I UNDERSTAND WHAT YOU ARE TRYING TO DO    :confused: