Anyone Shooting Beman MFX Classics ?

[1/4 away]

I was thinking of giving these a try but I'm not sure if I need the 400's or 500's. I'm shooting a Timberghost LB 56#@27" and cut my arrows 28" BOP I was thinking of using 100 gr BH adapters and 125gr heads to get the weight up. What do you think my best bet would be? Thanks

[Blackhawk]

Two of my hunting buddies have recently  converted to these Bemans and have not regretted the change. Both shoot 57-60 lb bows with their 28-29 inch draw and have their 400 arrows cut at around 30".  

I shoot a bow similar to your specs and the majority opinion seems to be for me to go with the 500's.

These are great looking arrows and the smaller diameter shaft is very durable.

[Guru]

I agree,the 500's will probably work best for the spec's you want.....

[Bill Carlsen]

My wife is shooting 27" 500's from her 43# bow with 200 grains up front and they shoot perfect for her. I suspect that 500's might be too light in spine if you want 225 grains up front.

[BTH]

I have a 57# at 26 1/2 Morrison Cheyenne. I'm shooting Beman MFX Classics 400's cut to 27 1/4 BOP; 100 grain brass inserts and 250 grains insert and broadhead. The fly real well.

[BowBrain]

I shoot 56# @ 28" Super Shrew Samurai.  I'm using Beman MFX Classics 500's cut to 28-1/2" BOP with 100 grain brass inserts and 130 grain broadhead.  Excellent setup for me.

[DEERDOG]

Best move in arrows I ever made. Very tough!
I shoot 29in 400's 100 gr insert 200gr point.
Right at 600 grains.

[shootrmn]

Shooting the 400's out of a 60# LB cut 30.25 bop using four 5" T-hawk feathers and 125 grn points with no added weight. total arrow around 480 grns I think they fly like darts and almost impossible to break unless you shoot a steel fence post ( we aren't going to talk about that )
I femoved the labeling with bohning thinner and capped and crested them. Most folks don't even notice that they aren't wood. I figure they are wood it is just very old wood.

[joel smith]

500's and leave 'em full length at first, cut 'em a little at a time (use just a tad of hot glue instead of epoxy, heat the point only to release, shoot into something that doesn't grab the point too tightly---this way you can easily adjust the length till it gets where they fly best). Spine needs can vary greatly by the way you get off the string---if you've got a  butter-smooth release you'll get by with less spine

[eagle24]

Fred,

You need to bareshaft those thin shafts.  The thinner shaft will spine weaker because it moves the arrow closer to center shot.  I shoot 31" 400's in my 41# ACS-CX, 46# Horne Mountain Bow, & 52# Harrelson Longbow.  When I bareshafted, the 500's spined weak in all three bows.  The 400's flew great without any fletching and hit right with my fletched shafts.  I never would have thought the 500's would be weak.  Also, while I was bareshafting them at the local archery shop we looked at the chart for 41# recurve.  At 30" the chart says 500, but at 31" the chart says 400.  I've got buddies with shorter draw length shooting Dalaa's and Win limbed Hoyt bows that are shooting 500's at higher #'s, so arrow length makes a big difference also.  If you are going to cut them 28" BOP I bet you will need 500's, but if you leave them long you may need the 400's.

[1/4 away]

Guys thanks for the help. A buddy has some 500's for me to try so I'll start with them first and then give the 400's a try.

[Emmons]

I have been shooting the MFX Classic for awhile now.  Here is what I found.  I was shooting the 500's with 100 grain brass insert and 175 point cut to 26.5" from a Morrison TD which is 58# @ 26".  But the same arrow with a 250 point and standard insert tuned weak.  I think the longer brass inserts effect the spine some.  What I found is you need to leave the shaft 1/2 to 1" longer with the brass inserts to have the same spine.  I hope that is clearer then mud.  

I since change these arrow, because thru form work I draw a solid 26.5" now.  So the arrows were to short.  So I extended the arrows with a 2" section of a 2020 shaft (25 grains) with insert (25 grians) and shot them with a 125 grain point for a total of 275 grain up front, but 3/4" longer.

I also shoot the 400's footed with a 1" section of 2018 and cut at 27-1/2" with 250 grain point and the standard HIT insert.  This arrow tunes perfectly from my Border (62# @ 26") and my Morrison Cheyenne (64# @ 26").  I draw these bows to 26-1/2".

With all that, I think the 500's is the correct shaft for your bow with a 28" shaft.

[HornHunter]

boy I hate to go against the grain here----- but I shoot 62" sa widow 60#@29"---- shoot the 340 mfx cut 30 1/2 bop , 100 grn brass insert, either 125 or 145 grn point, 3 - 5 " fletch,

they fly perfect, with broadheads or field points any conditions --wet, windy, etc.

weigh either 575 or 600

one trick i have learned when cutting to length cut off the knock end and keep the factory cut for the point, and use the champher tool, that makes all the difference when screwing on a head, they will spin perfect with the factory cut everytime

[BillyMarkwell]

I just went through the switch to these type arrows…..I ordered  the kit that comes with all 4 arrow spines…after cutting, tuning and shooting for a month…I settled on the 400’s…..Reasons…first, I wanted a total arrow wt. of 500 grains….and I wanted to shoot a 100 grain broadhead….and of course I wanted the arrow to bend just enough to clear the handle (have the perfect spine)…to achieve the above…I left the arrow full length…added a 3 grain per inch weight tube….and out of my 50 pound Savannah at 28-1/2 inch draw….they fly perfect….and  the total wt. came out at 515 grains…which gives me the punch I wanted…..Good luck with your quest for  perfect spine

[strick9]

I am able to get correct spine with 340s cut to 29.25 bop ,100grn insert and 125 field point..571 total grn weight and shoots great at 28 inches and 60 lbs and also 65 lbs..Started with the 400s but the werent stiff enough at my length..They are a supper tuff arrow,,did build up out my shelf to accomadate the skinniness...