The correct spine is a function of the actual weight you are pulling, the length of the arrow, the weight of the point, and a few other things that we can probably ignore for now. To know the actual weight you are pulling, you can either measure it directly, or measure your draw length. If you measure your draw length, you will either be at 28” (from your video you are probably close) or you can subtract or add 2# from the given weight of the bow for every inch your draw length is less or more than 28”. To measure your draw length, have your wife make a mark on the arrow where it exits the bow (which is called the back of the bow) while you are at full draw. Then measure the distance from the mark to the bottom (the valley) of the nock.
Then you can either calculate the spine or bare shaft tune. Bare shaft tuning is the most accurate, but not recommended until you have established a consistent form. Otherwise, you can search for Stu Miller’s Spine Calculator, on the internet. A lot of people have reported success using that, but I have never used it since I bare shaft tune.
What you will be doing is to select a point that will give you the overall weight you want, and then trimming the shaft until that point is correctly tuned for the bow. Your 400 spine arrow should work fine for now. You may need to leave it full length to work. I recommend you select a point that will give you a gpp of about 9. 8 is pushing it on the low side, and is noisy and not that great for the bow. On the other hand, many 3D shooters use 8 or even lower if their bows are designed for it. Many hunters use 10 or even higher, because it is quiet and penetrates better than a lighter arrow would. OTOH, it is slow. So, as I say, 9 is a good compromise.
Of course, if all you’re going to be doing for a while is shooting indoors at 1 yard, and don’t have any convenient way of cutting the arrow, you can forget all this and just put the point you want on the arrow you have.
Topic: Quiet my recurve (Read 3881 times)
