shelf material wear

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

I have a bow that wears the rest material on the outside of the shelf.  I know that the arrows aren't stiff, actually they're slightly weak.  I know about raising the nock point and turning the cockfeather in.  I have actually had pieces of my cockfeather get caught in the velcro rest material and tear off when shooting.  My question is what causes this?  I have left wing feathers fletched left helical.  Could it be that my twist is too agressive or maybe I have my feathers too far forward on the shaft?  For now I'm just going to shoot cockfeather in, but I was curious as to if anyone else had this experience and knew if maybe I just need to set my fletching farther down in my clamp making it closer to the nock.

[4 point]

I have a problem with this on some bows. I think it could be a lot of things. I finally started using a elevated rest to solve the problem. I think it could be caused by to much pressure on the ring finger on your draw hand or the way your griping your bow. I was told it was caused by to stiff of a arrow but when I put the flipper rest on my arrows bare shafted perfect.  

Travis

[JimB]

If those other things are ruled out,it could be a form issue.Top finger pinch,possibly from a high elbow,string torque?If these are the problem,a feather rest could help.

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure my arrows aren't too stiff.  50#@28" mojostick drawing 25 1/2" with a 16 strand FF string shooting easton gamegetter 500(2016) cut to 28 1/2" (that was an accident, I got carried away) with a 225 gr. point three 5" helical fletched feathers.  Shooting split fingered with the nock point at 1/2"

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

Jim you could be absolutley correct as my bow is only 56" and I don't exactly have the greatest form or best release  :D   .  The odd thing is I'm actually shooting pretty well I'm just tired of changin my velcro.

[mrpenguin]

I think your arrows sound possibly weak... I used to shoot 2016's out of a 50# recurve with a B50 string, 125 grain tip, cut to 28" and they tuned perfectly.  That much weight up front is going to clobber that spine...

case-in-point:
I am working on tuning woodies to my Savannah LB, 55# with FF material skinny string.  Right now I am shooting 65/70 spine arrows  cut to 30" BOP, 190 tips and reading weak.  The arrow kicks right and high when shot.  I spoke with a friend and he recommends cutting the arrow down to stiffen the spine and raise the nock.  I know these arrows will tune to the bow b/c I had a previous set tuned.

I currently have 2117 (cut to 30" & 125 gr tips) and ACC 440 cut to about 30" with outserts and 200 gr tips flying nicely out of the set up.

Those arrows are pretty stiff and I get decent flight and good groups... even the woodies are doing OK inside 20 yards.

I think a stiffer arrow or less weight up front will help.

[Mitch-In-NJ]

For me it was a problem with torquing the string.  Too much pressure on one finger (I shoot split).

Went to a deeper set and worked on relaxing my hand more as well as trying to get more even pressure on my index and middle fingers.  That fixed it.

[badbadleroybrown]

Originally posted by Buckeye Trad Hunter:
I'm not positive but I'm pretty sure my arrows aren't too stiff.  50#@28" mojostick drawing 25 1/2" with a 16 strand FF string shooting easton gamegetter 500(2016) cut to 28 1/2" (that was an accident, I got carried away) with a 225 gr. point three 5" helical fletched feathers.  Shooting split fingered with the nock point at 1/2"

I think you are right on with your arrow selection.  If anything I would say they may be a little weak with all that weight on the front.  i shoot a 2016 out of my 50# bows at 29 1/2" and 125 grains on the front.  I know setups vary from one archer to another but I would be willing to bet that your nock point is a little high.  I shoot 3 under and use a 1/2" above 0 nock point.  I have to use a higher nock point with 3 under than with split.

[Zradix]

I personally don't like velcro rests for THAT (peeling feathers off) reason. The velcro is made from Loops that are hard to pull out. If you have any little imperfection in your feather or adhesive job it wants to stick and stay in the velcro.

I use a Bear Hair rest (brand name not the animal).
It is made with individual fibers that don't grab a thing.

I know LOTS of people use velcro to good ends.
But to me it looks like a problem waiting to happen at an inopportune moment.

Good luck to you buddy.

[hawk4570]

Try a feather rest. I have put them on a little recurve and it worked great

[ScottinPA]

I fight the same thing from time to time.  I've determined it to be a high elbow and too much pressure on the ring finger.  This mostly starts to happen when I'm tired but too stubborn to quit for the day.

Good luck remedying the situation.

[Charlie Lamb]

56" is a pretty short bow. Maybe the bow is telling you you need to stick to something a little longer.

Getting the leading edge of your fletch tacked down nice and smooth is not that tough either.

[K.Morgan]

I would say your arrows are to weak and the back end is hitting the shelf because they are flexing to much. Try a stiffer arrow and see if you loose the arrow contact.

[Orion]

You say you know about raising the nocking point, but did you try it?  If it's not an arrow/spine issue, and if it's not your form, it's probably too low a nock point.

[Buckeye Trad Hunter]

Orion it very possibly could be my form.  It may be such that the shorter less forgiving bow is showing flaws in my form that I wasn't aware of.  I'm going to try and concentrate on my elbow and the pressure across my fingers.

Thanks again for all the help everyone.  If anyone has any other ideas, by all means, keep them coming.

[Orion]

Good luck.  I only have one 56-inch bow, and there's no doubt in my mind that it is more sensitive, i.e. less forgiving, when I make a bad release or even inadvertently grip the string differently.