could a target mess with bareshaft results??

[Chris Shelton]

So I am a tinkerer by nature. I bareshafted my ICS shafts when they first came last fall, but I have increased FOC even more and thought I would bareshaft them again.  When I did my 29.5 inch shaft was slightly right which was good because I could loose about an inch of shaft and be absolutely perfect.  

My targets are a bag style target and a glen del full rut.  So my reason for concern, is that my glen del is a bit "dead" the foam covering is crumbling away and layers are exposed, if I hit square double lung I get a healthy pass through. So when I hit those bare foam layers I get a pretty strait arrow with my 28.5 inch shaft  . . . but then I thought that the arrow was just straitening out because it was penetrating pretty well.  So I shot at the butt.

Then the arrow was really nock right???  So what do you guys think, am I just way overthinkin this??? Last time I bare shafted the target was in great shape so this was not a thought!  Thanks in advance

[FerretWYO]

A target can and will mess with results in my experience. I bare shaft with a the block targets ar our club here. I set the with vertical layers to set the nock and horizontal layers for spine tuning. I have found if I dont do that it becomes very hard to get a consistent result.

[Bill Carlsen]

Chris: I've bare shafted since the 60's and the foam core targets, for me, are the best. However, I picked up a real cheap styrofoam target at Wally World. It doesn't  hold up very well to a lot of shooting but it is great for the bare shafters out there. Hay bales, excelsior and the like, unless they are really soft, are suspect for bare shafting. I haven't done it myself but the use of lighted nocks has been highly recommended for bare shafting.

[**DONOTDELETE**]

I have been told that You go by shaft flight NOT how it hits the target. If You watch an arrow that is tuned right and comes out of paradox then hits the target...It still moves so when it stops Your seeing that and work from it...

Now if You just go by how it flies to the target Your get a better understanding of the shaft.

Like I said this is what I was told..Plus if You read O.L's website on bareshaft planning, He doesn't talk about how the shaft should stick in the target.. Only where it stick when testing it with a finished arrow topped w/BH.

[Doc Nock]

Wow! This is interesting. I drove myself near nuts with Nock right or left tuining (not a long drive, but still...)

Bareshaft, following what was posted on OL Adcock's site, relied not on how the arrow penetrates and then comes to rest in the target, but on the differences in grouping of the bare vs. fletched shafts!

Following that formula, I've had much better results and rather quickly... Bare vs. fletched...bare should be slight low and right as the fletch stiffens to some extent.

Then fletched field vs. broadhead and start over.

We sure can learn a lot on here!

[chopx2]

http://bowmaker.net/tuning.htm

This is OLs tunig guide that Doc Nock is talking about

[SS Snuffer]

Go by flight and you can see the arrow curve right or left. Right is week left is stiff for a righthand shooter. If it goes straight and curves up or down move your nock.