noc hitting right.

[LinemanARK]

At 10yds  it seems to be hittting were I aim but the noc is level but right. When I back up to 15yds it will totaly miss the target. The arrow has no feathers on it trying to tune this bow. Any ideas. thanks Mike

[stickhead]

Sound like it is stiff if your right handed but when I bareshaft I  start out close like 5yds if knocks right it's stiff left is weak and better a little weak than stiff.

[droptine82]

I second stickhead.  I assume you miss the target to the left. If so add weight up front as this will help to weaken the spine of the arrow.  Tell us your setup and we might be able to help a little more.

[LinemanARK]

Ok guys here is my setup 45# amf hawk wing archery  new to trad. but willing to learn I was shooting a GT 5575 (to stiff I know) but my dl is 26 1/2 and my arrow was 29"s with a 140gn practice point I really need some new arrows that are for trad archery. but no one around here knows that much about it. there arnt any trad bow shops around here ether, really. Some guy clam to know a little but I trust u guys so help me out

[JimB]

They may be too stiff with that head weight but get or make some 250 gr field points and you will see a dramatic difference.I have a 43# bow that I use 5575's with and a 235 gr point.With my draw length it is about 45#.Get some 250 gr field points and it will increase your FOC,penetration and save you from buying new arrows.When you are ready for broadheads,you can use a combination of glue on broadhead and different weight adapters to get the exact weight you need.

Check out the tuning info at bowmaker.net

[LinemanARK]

Man jim best advice I've heard  thanks a bunch would maybe putting a same tread screw in the back of the insert work I made one easy but never glued it in I really want to kill a deer with this bow. Close range 10yds or so. What kind of broadhead should I use to get the heavy gain

[30coupe]

Man, you are only shooting about 40# of draw weight! I don't think you will weaken the 5575s enough with 250 grains up front to cure your problem, especially with arrows already cut to 29". I think you need to bite the bullet and get the right shafts. Some bows are forgiving enough of spine to let you get by with it, but yours is obviously not.

By the way, if you are bare shaft tuning, don't worry about the direction of the nock, just the impact point. The goal is for your bare shafts and your fletched shafts to group in the same area. If you are off the target at 15 yards, that's a lot. I start at about 10 yards and work back to 20 or more, but you have to have shafts spined closer to your draw weight (not what's printed on the bow, but what YOU draw).

I shoot Beman ICS Bowhunter 500 shafts cut to 29 1/2" with 235 grains up front from my 46# Kanati and they fly like darts, but I draw 28". These shafts are also MUCH weaker than the ones you are trying to use, plus my Kanati is very forgiving.

I think you need to start with 600 spine shafts and work with them until you have them the length you want with the FOC you want. You might get by with 500s, but you will need quite a bit of weight up front unless you don't mind leaving them full length.

Hope this helps.

Russ

[bornagainbowhunter]

Where about in AR are you.  I am in the NW area about half way between LR and Ft. Smith.  IF you are anywhere close, maybe I could help.  Shoot me a PM if you would like.

God Bless,
Nathan

[NoCams]

what 30coupe said times 2 ! If you want to stay with goldtips you best be buying or tradin for some 35/55's and even then leave them long and lots of tip weight. JMHO

[30coupe]

I had to front-load the crap out of the GT 35/55s I tried...to the point of them being too heavy (rainbow trajectory). I've had better luck with the Beman 500s. I even shoot them from my 53# Orion, though I do have to cut them to 28 1/2" and reduce point weight to 225 grains. Lots of guys love the GTs though, so you may have better luck with them. The Beman ICS Bowhunter shafts are cheap and work great, so I'm sticking with them.

[JimB]

rezeen,I would still play with some heavier point weight before buying new arrows.

I tune mainly by changing point weight.Even if I decide I want to go to a different spined shaft,playing with different weight points gives me an idea what I need.

I would prefer point weight over a weight behind the insert as it is easier to change and being further forward,it will make more of a change to dynamic spine.

Using 75,100 or 125 gr steel adapters and glue on broadheads,you can come up with about any weight or style broadhead you like.

My 43# bow is set up with a 160 gr STOS and a 75 gr steel adapter=235 gr.Keep in mind,I'm pulling about 45# and yours is about 42#.That is why I mentioned a 250 gr head.Mine are about 568 grs with woodgrain shafts and I wouldn't hesitate to shoot out to 25 yds with them.

If you send me a pm with your address,I will make you up some field points to try.I can set up some 250,265 and 285 gr heads.You will know with 30 minutes if it is working or not.Just be honest with yourself,if you aren't getting perfect arrow flight,then try something else.A very inexpensive experiment.I will be using 125,140 and 160 gr glue on points with different weight steel adapters so you could get the broadhead of your choice in one of those weights,if this should work.

Just let me know.

[droptine82]

I second JimB.  You could order some 100 grain inserts and some 250 grain points and give yourself 350 up front which is a lot but a 10 yards you wont have any problems.  Add as much weight as you can and see if that makes it weak enough or too weak and work from there.  I put your setup in Stu Miller calc and with your arrows and good form 350 grains up front would put you spot on if your bow is a recurve.  Not sure what your bow is as I did not look it up but it would be close if it is a longbow.  I also shoot 225 up front and no rainbow but i pull 57 to 31 inches.

[gjarcher]

The procedure for bareshaft plane test is in the Easton Arrow Tuning and Maintenance guide, just follow the advice for fingershooters (RF)
 http://www.eastonarchery.com/pdf/tuning_guide.pdf

Spine requirements vary by other factors than just DW/DL, such as bow efficiency, type of arrow rest or striker plate distance off centerline, and shot execution, so it is a trial and error method to find what will work best for you. However, off hand I agree that your shafts are very stiff and the amount of point weight to correct them would be excessive.

For a good starting point, work your way through Stu Miller's free dynamic spine program.  http://heilakka.com/stumiller/

[LinemanARK]

ttt

You'll need something near .600 to start.  Depending on your release and how close the bow is cut to center, pehaps weaker.