Mike suggested better epoxies rather than resin or a thin superglue, past experiences with super glues have been ineffectual(super glue = aron alpha). But stop gap drilling may be beneficial as it was on the initial repair. I hear what u’r saying about the locktite 420.
Whip! Did those brass rods go across the crack at 90degrees or were they stop gap holes at the edges of the crack, an how deep did u put them? I may still recess small head course thread screws across and under the crack. I’ll string it up to open, apply locktite and close up.
I will ask a friend to include the G2 in a care package for another try if required. This would be the better epoxies mentioned. Ta Steve!
Semo, this was what I was considering with glass mat. If the above don’t work I think so. Do u have a pict of that repair u can send?
Thanks all for advice, here’s the story with picts
The original crack commenced ¼” in from the plate, 1” in from the rear of the shelf, through the left quarter of the radius shield and extended about 1” down the throat.
Initially strung the bow to accentuate the crack then gouged out a small furrow 1/8 to ¼ deep at the raidiused shelf, placed in a few glass fibres and filled it in with resin and before it dryed, released the string to squeeze it up. Allowed to dry and smoothed it all back and further let it dry 4 days. It turned out surprisingly well.
It was then strung to the correct brace height of 7 ½“. After 20 odd shots a small crack was again noticeable but only through the raidiused shelf, not extending the original length. I checked the brace height again and it had come in nearly 1/4”, wow! I never imagined. Shot a few more times to see if the crack would expand but it remains thus.
I surmise that as the crack has extended no further the initial repair was somewhat correct and I am thinking perhaps I did not gouge deep enough in that shelf section!?