My first wood arrow ...

[Mr.Magoo]

Made it for all of 3 shots.  Every shot was laser straight until the arrow got about a foot from the target, then it would veer sharply (15yard shot).  First up, then down, the 3rd time it hit my plywood backstop and SNAP.

Nocks and head were straight; at this rate, I'll end-up with a pile of toothpicks before I get anything tuned.

[Stumpkiller]

You're tuning for bare shaft broadhead flight?  

You're a better man than I.  I never tried that one.

[Encino Man]

DO NOT BARE SHAFT TUNE WITH A BROADHEAD!! It acts like a rudder and will give you false results.

[Mr.Magoo]

Well, I never claimed to be the brightest bulb in the box.

I guess the broadhead could have something to do with it      .  Good thing I have a big backstop.

Guess I'll wait until my glue-on target points get here to continue.

I'm still a bit disappointed the shaft snapped so easily.

[tex-archer]

Scary!!

[moebow]

That's a sure combination to break wood shafts (and dangerous!!!)!!!!!
Give Bob Wesley a call.  He lives just south of Chapel Hill and is one of the old gents of trad archery and one of the best.  He can help you!!!!

[Encino Man]

O.L. Adcock's Tuning Longbows and Recurves is a great source. Do a google search.

[Mr.Magoo]

Well, I'm glad I posted the picture or I'd still be trying to figure it out.

Strange how you just don't think about things sometimes.

On the plus side, my scrap wood taper jig works fine.

[Encino Man]

Cool...Post a picture of the taper tool.

[jarhead_hunter]

What kinda wood is the shaft????

POC, spruce, fir, or ????

Charles.

[Mr.Magoo]

Simple as can be.  Scrap wood base, scrap wood 'fence'.  Just measure your angle with a speed square and lock it down with screws.  I screwed the rail from the attachment that came with the sander to the bottom of the base to keep it riding true in the dado.

 

 

[Mr.Magoo]

Douglas fir ...