BTW, of course one could just use scrap wood and some finish nails and for less than $5 have a string jig that would get the job done...but after getting tired of nails working loose and bending under tension...I may have gone overboard, but this one has no adjustments and is built to last which is what I wanted. So, I took some measurements off my old wood board, made a few alterations, and had this one made from stainless steel at least 12 years ago...it is still as good as new.
So, I thought I would share a photo and description of the design in case anyone wanted to copy it. I went to a shop that does big jobs and picked up some "scrap" stainless. It is just under a 1/2" thick, 2 & 1/2" inches wide, and about 44" long (long enough to rest on one arm of the recliner and reach over to the other arm, sitting over my lap without touching me...like a bar on a rollercoaster ride that sits above you). Weighs about 10 pounds probably (I have not weighed it), but it is light enough to move yet heavy enough to stay put when in use.
The base was measured, marked, and then drilled with 1/4" holes at 1/2" intervals (to make strings at 1" intervals). The board was turned upside down and lifted slightly from a table with a 3/4" spacer so the pegs could be dropped into place and stay there until welded on the bottom side. The pegs were just under 1 & 1/4" long each, which left them slightly "counter sunk" on the base. Once all the welding was done, any "bumps" that stuck out low on the base were ground flat and polished smooth. The board was then turned right side up and the tops of the pegs ground at a 45 slope (with the high side being the side the holds the string. The purpose of the 45 degree grind was to give more space between the tops of each peg enabling me to get the string in easily. As I "roll" my hand by the pegs the string just "slips" on the peg. The board also has "grooves" cut into it for measurements on where to start my flemishes (which are marked with a sharpie pen). The "padding splice peg" is to add extra padding to loops so they can be added during the layout of the bundles and layed in without stopping. Once this was done, all sharp edges were buffed smooth with a polish wheel. Cost was about $125-150 or so I really don't remember...but it wasn't as bad as one might think being it is made from stainless...and I will never need another PLUS it is super user friendly. Total time making the board was about an hour with a COMPETENT shop man (but I had my design and measurements DONE BEFORE I got there to save time).
I attached the teflon "cut plate" to be easy on my knife and the teflon bases to be easy on furniture. I think I used contact cemment for that. I have a few extra "cut plates" to replace them as needed, which isn't very often as it wears better than wood. I hope you enjoy the photo...but for a close up click here...
http://www.protegelongbows.com/bowstringjig.jpg This image is the same image as the link above, but is reduced to fit the tradgang forums.
Note: Due to the length of the jig, you just go one time down and one time back for each strand (only needing 2 passes...rather than making 4 passes as one does on a short jig that uses a "center body peg" in a similar spot as my "splice padding peg." My "splice padding peg" is ONLY used for adding padds to the loops, meaning I don't use this peg at all when making dacron strings.
Topic: A stainless steel flemish string jig (instructions)... (Read 139 times)
