points, broadhead and target ?s

[timbermoose]

1st, haveing problem with my feild points coming off in my hay bales. useing bohing ferr-l-tite hot glue. sugestions?

2nd, what is a good broadhead target for glue on broadheads on wood arrows? i used a mckenzie, but my heads were coming off in the target.

[Grey Taylor]

I like using 30 minute epoxy.
Whatever glue you use you have to be sure your tips are clean, perfectly clean. most glues will fail if the tips are left oily.

Guy

[SuperK]

Clean the inside of your points/broadheads with alcohol.  Then wrap a piece of sandpaper around a piece of tapered shaft and score the inside of the point.  Reclean with the alcohol.  I use regular hotmelt glue and I don't have much of a problem losing points.

[Stumpkiller]

What SuperK said.  Clean the machining oil out with alcohol or acetone.  And Ferr-L-Tite hot melt glue for fieldpoints and broadheads.  I clamp a hotair gun (paint removal kind) lightly in my vice and use that to heat the heads and glue (and keep it soft on the shaft.

[bigbadjon]

Like the others said cleaning the head is essential. If you use a power sander for your tapers you also need the whipe the dust off the shaft. A clean heat source like a propane torch or heat gun is also essential. With that out of the way I think you should stick with Ferr-L-Tite. When it dries it is hard and inflexible, and is the only glue stick I know of that is. Epoxy is good to if it dries hard but the heat requires to remove it might toast your shaft.

[Grey Taylor]

Jon, epoxy needs a little more heat to break free but not a whole lot. It's an archery urban legend that you need to use that much heat to remove an epoxied tip.

Guy

[magnus]

I've removed inserts from used heads I've got using my alcohol burner. It's what I use for putting heads on as well. A lot more control than a heat gun. Burns clean as well.

Keeping the Faith!
Magnus

[Rob DiStefano]

never ever had good results with any of the hot melt glues.

slow set epoxy (the 30-40 minute type, not 5 minute epoxy) for all heads on all shafts.  clean out the residue inside all point ferrules first.

as mentioned above, if need be, heat will remove epoxied points fairly easily.

[chad graham]

clean points and ferr-l-tite have always worked for me as well.