problem with finnish

[cbCrow]

In the last couple of months I have went back to wooden arrows. I use sitka spruce shafts, matched weighed and get them cut and tapered to length. I then proceed to install points and nocks and tape them with painters tape after which I sand the shafts with 150 grit paper. I apply my stain(minwax), after 15-20 minutes I wipe off excess and allow them to dry over night. I then take 220 grit paper over them and repeat another coat. When I have desired color I let them dry for at least 8 hrs. I hit them again with 220 and proceed to seal them with polycrylic. I apply a light coat and allow to dry per instructions at least 3 hrs then lightly sand with 220. I do same until I have 3 coats of poly on them then allow to dry for a day. I have noticed that when shooting 3D targets especially the coating and stain seems to be coming off and the wood for the first 4-6" of my arrows has become light colored. I had heard that the poly will burn in the 3D targets and I wipe them after 3-5 shots with a silicone cloth but it does not help. Can anyone tell me what is wrong and how to fix it. I never had this problem with cedar only the spruce.

[mahantango]

I don't know why there is any difference between cedar and spruce, but in my experience, there is no comparison between polyacrylic and good old oil-based poly like spar urethane when it comes to durability. I won't even touch the water-based stuff.

[Stumpkiller]

I have been using MinWax polyurethane (wiped on three coats) with good results.  Never tried an acrylic.

I'm trying to remember what I used years back - it was a disaster.  The hay and straw stuck to it from the bales.  Seems like it was a paste wax of some type.

[Bjorn]

I use a water based acrylic dip (no smell) and most of my arrows are for hunting, so the 3D arrows are for practice, as long as they fly well......................

[LookMomNoSights]

What mahantango said!
I use the regular poly and polyshades.  No probs! A bulletproof finish!  I brush sponge it on and it levels or covers uniformly on its own.  2 coats,  0000 steel wool,  repeat for a total of 6 coats.  I only wool after the first and second 2 coat sets.  Dont wool after the last 2.  Use Satin and youll get minimal shine. Try it,  youll be a happy camper for sure! Shouldnt matter the wood,  tho Im using Doug Fir

[Mike Vines]

First off, you should never sand wood that has been stained.  All you are doing is taking the stain you just put on, right back off.  Second, my personal preference is to allow everything I do to an arrow shaft to dry for 24 hrs before I move onto the next process.  I also wait till the end to install my nocks and points, that way, I'm sure that the stain and finish is completely covering the entire shaft.  I use a waterbased finish, and have no problems at all with the stain coming off, and yes after a ton of shots into a target, I do get some buildup on the front of my arrow just behind the point, but they are just for target shooting, and I expect that.  

Like Bjorn said..."Most of my arrows are for hunting" also...so as long as they fly good and hit the intended target everything else is immaterial.