Author Topic: Arrow Footings (Read 651 times)

30pointbuck · « **Reply #20 on:** February 13, 2011, 09:17:00 PM »

Thanks Charlie, That will come in handy.

Knapper · « **Reply #21 on:** March 17, 2011, 10:13:00 AM »

I am footing wood shafts to add more beauty to the shaft, to add a part of me, and for the lure of interaction in a on going passion in traditional archery. It adds a part of me to he arrow. Why do we crest arrows, is it to be able to recognize that arrow? Not really, it is involvement, interaction, and making a statement about something that we really love and believe in.

Put all that crap aside. I shoot at least a 1,000 shot a year with judo's and I maybe break 3 arrows. Big deal.

Jack Skinner · « **Reply #22 on:** March 17, 2011, 11:32:00 AM »

Someone asked about hardwood footed shafts these are bloodwood and purpleheart. Adding FOC, strength and balance to Poplar shafts. Third tru 6th from left.

Internally footed poplar. Third, forth, fifth from left I believe you can see a little brass showing. Some of the hardwood footed shafts also have brass and or lead added internally. Adds FOC, strength to tip

Lot of time and work in making these shafts, and I enjoy every second.

straitera · « **Reply #23 on:** March 17, 2011, 11:38:00 AM »

Really nice Jack! Killer arrows!

tecum-tha · « **Reply #24 on:** March 17, 2011, 11:55:00 AM »

If you shoot wood, footings can be created with different methods. Single Splice, dovetail, 4-wing or konus-type footings.
The konus types are by far the toughest, if done with the right woods and the 4-wing are the most beautiful to most eyes...

hardwaymike · « **Reply #25 on:** March 18, 2011, 12:02:00 PM »

Anyone have any chunks of 2216 laying around that they want to get rid of? I want to try this footing thing out on my GT 5575's. And according to the chart that is what it will take. They won't fit into my 2117 shafts.

Camp III · « **Reply #26 on:** March 18, 2011, 04:47:00 PM »

I'm striking out on finding some 1916's does anybody have one I could buy.

hardwaymike · « **Reply #27 on:** March 20, 2011, 04:49:00 PM »

jonsimoneau · « **Reply #28 on:** March 20, 2011, 07:12:00 PM »

Here are some I made for wood arrows. Sitka spruce shafts, purple heartwood footing.

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30pointbuck · « **Reply #29 on:** March 20, 2011, 08:33:00 PM »

Those are cool.

hardwaymike · « **Reply #30 on:** March 20, 2011, 08:38:00 PM »

Nice Jon!

Possum Head · « **Reply #31 on:** March 21, 2011, 06:54:00 AM »

Charlie's list was really nice and it just so happens some where I saw a post about trying 2117's on 500's so I did just that and they work perfect on the ICS Bowhunters (Beemans).So add that on your chart for future reference.

sj_lutz · « **Reply #32 on:** March 21, 2011, 07:22:00 AM »

I'm really impressed with 3R's "carbon collars". Don't have a whole lot of experience with them yet, just put them on a couple weeks ago. That said, they are very effective from what I've seen so far. Out stumping yesterday, as it happens, shot a touch over the top of what I was aiming at, and smacked the rock I couldn't see behind it (PA woods = lots of rocks) Ended up bending the 100 grain insert, but the arrow itself was fine. I'm confidant that without the collar, this arrow would have mushroomed.

hardwaymike · « **Reply #33 on:** March 21, 2011, 02:06:00 PM »

So when you put the aluminum shaft pieces over the carbon shaft, do you have to put anything on the aluminum part on the top or no? In the pics it looks like there is a collar on the top of the aluminum piece. I may be seeing something that is not there but that is what I am seeing.

Buckwheaties · « **Reply #34 on:** March 21, 2011, 02:17:00 PM »

Lancaster sells single alum shafts.

RookieBwhunter · « **Reply #35 on:** March 21, 2011, 02:37:00 PM »

Footing seems odd to me. If you take part of the arrow away and add a stronger piece to it, wouldn't that still create a weak spot where the two join? I am not much of a wood worker like my father and grandfather were so bare with me

Why not just use a heavier/stronger wood to begin with? Say Hickory? I will admit it does add a nice look to it though.

tecum-tha · « **Reply #36 on:** March 21, 2011, 07:36:00 PM »

It will make a lighter shaft with some FOC. I had cedar arrows footed with 1.5" of black locust withstand direct hits on steel posts. The field point ferrule split open. Arrow was fine.
Had that happen on multiple arrows. One cedar shaft shot 7 times into a concrete block. Then I called it quits. Arrow still good today.
Arrow fix-style conus footing.1.2-2" long.

jonsimoneau · « **Reply #37 on:** March 21, 2011, 11:15:00 PM »

RookiebWhunter, it may seem that way...but actually the opposite is true. English archers begain footing arrows a really long time ago when they realized the benefits of it. The benefits of it today, are even more exagertated. (I'm talking wood arrows...I've never footed carbons or aluminum.) The reasons are that our glues are probably much better than what was available in the old days. I use Gorrilla glue for my wood arrow footings...and trust me...it works great! The wood used in the footing is much denser and tougher than the actual shaft of the arrow. This gives you extreme strength in the most vulnerable part of the shaft without the arrow weight of using an arrow made completely out of something like purple heartwood. And yes..they look cool! The other benefit to footing wood arrows is the increase in F.O.C. which has pretty much been proven to increase penetration. You will break many less wood arrows if they are footed! Have fun guys!

RookieBwhunter · « **Reply #38 on:** March 22, 2011, 11:24:00 AM »

Thanks Jonsimoneau, always appreciate the info


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