internal carbon footing - give me some help please

[saumensch]

Hi Gang,

talking bout internal carbon footings - i want to add some weight te easy way to my arrows and am thinking hard about glueing a second "insert" without the lip or a fitting piece of a aluminium rod behind my insert into the shaft.

Now, i know that more weight in front will weaken the spine and the footing will stiffen it some due to less bending area, i will have to test this to get good results.

But if i jsut glue the footing in, im afraid it could move and slide inside the shaft. Im going to use the new hotmelt glue from BigJims, Quick Stick or so. Any expereience or advice?

Thanks alot.
Axel

[sweet old bill]

I used the 24 hour epoxy and put in 85 gr copper .243 point that a buddy had from his reloading / gun shooting. They seem to work fine, they get the weight upfront to help in FOC and also peneration. I then went to the local gun / archery and was able to get 2 doz more in solid copper in 100 gr weight and will use these as replacement arrows are needed to be made up.I paid I think it was about $5 dollars plus tax...

[saumensch]

thanks Bill,
Epoxy is what im using currently to glue my arrows /inserts. Just was thinking that the hot melt would give me the ability to change things later if needed. Perhaps ill tune em with hot melt and then finaly glue em with epoxy for addedsafety....

[Trad Whitetail]

Well depending on your insert you might be able to use the Gold Tip weight system.  It is a series of weights you screw into the back of the insert (if your insert is threaded all of the way through).  The nice thing is it is not permanent and you can change them around.  

You could also use the brass inserts of various weights.  I have had great luck with those.  

Personally I prefer to keep the weight as forward as possible for good FOC and predictable results.  When you start adding weight by gluing things behind the insert you are dealing with spine change from the material its self stiffening the arrow and the weight of it possibly reducing spine depending on how far from the tip it is.  It would work and stay put if you glued it in there good, just like an insert.  However it might take more experimentation to get what you want.

[saumensch]

I use the 100 grain brass inserts, gold tip weights dont fit into them.
I want the effect off stiffening, because that would make me able to put more weight up front (hopefully equal itself out).
Thanks

[Tree Rat]

Measure the ID of your chosen carbons. Find out what AL shaft has an OD tha matches (or is real close) fill the AL with whatever weight you want and glue it in behind your insert.

[JimB]

Axel,I know you can take the lip off the brass insert by putting it in a drill or drill press and using a file to take it off while the drill is turning.You would lose 10 grs or so of weight.

If you are good with tools,you could drill and thread that small hole in the back of each insert and connect the two inserts,back to back,with a threaded piece cut from the shank of a screw-then glue them in the shaft.I wouldn't want to trust glue alone.

What I find easier is to use the 100 gr insert.I then use a glue on broadhead with a steel adapter,75,100 or 125 grs.If that isn't enough weight,I use the 100 gr steel adapter and melt lead into it's hollow cavity.It will hold 28 grs of lead.If I need more weight,I tamp some lead up into the front of the broadhead's ferrule.My Grizzlys took about 20 grs of lead up there.I don't like to heat the broadhed so I tamped lead birdshot in there with a steel punch.

Now,if you really need a lot more weight,you can use your choice of steel adapter,glue a 75 grain Woody Weight (from 3 Rivers)on that and then glue your broadhead onto the woody weight.

This way you can change weight by just working on the point which you remove from the shaft.No heat around the shaft.I find the glue on heads with screw in adapters give me much more versatility in making custom weight points.

Good luck with your project.