Help please!!!!

[1hornhunter]

Having trouble tuning my longbow.  Here are the specs.  61# at 28".  My draw is about 27"  So the bow should be around 59#.  I have tried 2117 and 2314 aluminum arrows.  Having trouble getting the arrow to fly straight.  The arrow wobbles side to side.  Also tried paper tuning the bow.  Point hits and tears left.  Im left handed what if anything should be done.  
Looking to stay with aluminum.  What size should I try next?  Other options?

[LH Keith]

I'm sure some alum. users will be along to help, but some more info would make things easier. Arrow length, tip wt.,riser cut, etc.
              Keith

[LKH]

One of the mistakes people make when trying to tune carbon or aluminum to a longbow is that they cut the arrows to the length they want instead of letting the bow tell them what length works with that bow.  In short, they get the spine wrong.

If you start off full length, you can cut off about 1/4" at a time and see if you can make them work.  Adding on doesn't work as well.

If you can get them to work at some length greater than you desire, you can then mess with the tip weight and perhaps get them shorter.

[LPM]

I bet your too stiff on the arrow.  I assume you have them cut down somewhere around 28 to 29 inches.  

I used to shoot a 62 lb recurve with 2117 arrows that were cut at 31 and 1/2 inches.  I also had at least 175 grains of point weight also.  It shoot perfectly with no feathers.

If you want to shoot aluminum with that short of a draw on a longbow at 59# try this.

Start with a 2016 arrow shaft 31"inches in length with your desired weight of field point at least 125 grains, (the weight that matches your broad head).

NO feathers allowed!!  Stand about 10 yds from your target.  Your a lefty so if the arrow darts off to the left, and I think it will,the arrow is too weak.

Start shortening the arrow length 1/4 to 1/2 inch at a time until the arrow flies right down the middle and strikes the target on a relativly straight line.

If at any time the arrow darts of to the right, your shaft has gotten shortened too much and got too stiff.  In this case you can add point weight to make the arrow spine weaker causing the arrow to fly back more to the left and hopefully be right down the middle.

If you are convinced that you must shoot a 2117, you will have to cut your arrows nearly full length and have considerable point weight to get it weak enough to be shot straight without feathers.  The matter is morse the further from center shot your bow is.

Keep at it................good luck!

[primitivealltheway]

i agree with lkh ,start off full length arrow,if you dont have a saw to cut you can use a copper tube cutter ,go slow

[LPM]

Sorry about my spelling ......I could use help with that.........Please do try all your testing with a bare shaft though......It's the best.

[tecum-tha]

Assuming you'll have an arrow 28" BOP,
your approximate spine should be:
70-75 for a modern longbow depending on how far your shelf it cut toward the center of your bow.
Now your arrows seem to show weak behavior, but your shafting is equivalent to 78 or 80# spine.
Are you shooting full length or a point weight heavier than 125grain or is your bow cut more or even to center?

[Stump73]

These guys on this forum are a great bunch. They helped me out a lot. I was having the same problem, my arrows were to stiff so I tried heavier points. I ordered a field point test kit from 3rivers with weights from 100 gr to 250 gr for about $6. I ended up using 200 gr tips.

[SEMO_HUNTER]

Originally posted by tecum-tha:
Assuming you'll have an arrow 28" BOP,
your approximate spine should be:
70-75 for a modern longbow depending on how far your shelf it cut toward the center of your bow.
Now your arrows seem to show weak behavior, but your shafting is equivalent to 78 or 80# spine.
Are you shooting full length or a point weight heavier than 125grain or is your bow cut more or even to center?

That's what I was going to say, if it tears left for a left handed shooter that's an indicator of weak spine, but those 2 shafts you mentioned are plenty stiff for your draw wt. So something else must be out of wack?
Maybe it's your release or your form?

[Stickbow]

If you are in N. Idaho pm me and maybe I can help.

[Tom1954]

Not to question the obvious, but are you sure you have fletching clearance?  Even if they barely clear, you may want to adjust brace height if the feathers are close to the riser.

[1hornhunter]

Here is some more info as requested.  The bow is a 68" longbow with a center cut shelf.  I have clearance for fletching (brace height).  My draw lenght is 27" and the arrows are 29"  I am using 3 five inch feathers.  125 gr field point.  I also shoot split finger.  I am going to try a release aid to see.  It might be the fingers.  I shot wheel bow for years and have recently returned to shoot fingers.  I will keep you guys posted.  Thanks again for the info.

[Blueridge]

Nock left for a southpaw means too stiff. Try a 2018 cut to 28.5 with 145 fp.

[Blueridge]

Nock left for a southpaw means too stiff. Try a 2018 cut to 28.5 with 145 fp. You can then cut it back as you test it.
I'm a lefty and shoot mainly POC. My two bows are HH 56@28 and 61@28, my draw length is 28+.  My 2018's are 29"bop , 3 5" shield cut feathers. I can get by with 2117 from the heavier bow.
Good luck

[7 Lakes]

Blueridge is right, you got a little misinformation above.  
Tail hitting left is weak for right handers.
Tail hitting left is stiff for lefties.

Just another way we know that lefties aren't quite right.  

[Orion]

If your brace height is "clearance for fletching," that would put it around 6 inches.  Raise it to about 6 3/4 inches or even a little more, and see what happens. The 2117s, though a bit stiff, should fly well out of your bow if it's center cut and if you have a fast flite string.  Good luck.

[hvyhitter]

shooting about the same [email protected] with 160 total point weight...........start the arrows long and cut to tune and adjust point weight if you want.

[JimB]

I agree with the arrow being stiff.I try some heavier weight points and don't stop at 145 grs if it doesn't clear up.Even if you don't want to hunt with a lot heavier point,it will show you it was a spine issue,not a form issue and it will tell you how much too stiff it is.25 grs of point weight equals roughly 5 # of spine.Just a ballpark figure,it varies but will give you a rough idea.It wouldn't surprise me if it needed a 200 gr point-just a wild guess.

[Blueridge]

Ole Fred was a lefty so I'm in good company!
Forgot to add that I use b-50 on my hills.

[Blueridge]

Ole Fred was a lefty so I'm in good company!
Forgot to add that I use b-50 on my hills.