minwax water-based poly?

[hawk22]

Anyone used minwax water-based polyurethane for sealing wood arrows?

[Scott S.]

I have used it in the past.  More recently have been using Marine Spar Varnish.  I think I will go back to the water-based poly the next time I buy a can. Seems to be easier to work with and about as effective with less odor.

[DesertDude]

I use poly-crilic water base

[CRS]

I have use the poly crylic also but prefer the massey finish.  It goes on easier, dries harder and I don't get near as much target burn.

[hawk22]

What's the difference between the poly and the poly crylic?

[COOCH]

I have used both they both work well.Just make sure your glue is compatable with the poly or you will have flething problems.I.ve used DUCO with good results.

[ripforce56]

Minwax works great but I switched to Cabots polycrylic it is not thick as the Minwax dries fast and is real durable!

[jhg]

Varathane makes a very good water born product too. I'd go with gloss and then hit it with triple ought steel wool after the final coat if you want a hunting finish.

[Huntingnut]

I use the water based poly,and really like it.Durable, and doesn't stink the basement up which keeps me in th egood graces of my wife!

[hawk22]

sounds like i have to do some more research

[moththerlode]

I like the wipe on poly from minwax

[Zradix]

I've only tried minwax wipe on poly and it is WWWAAAYYYY easy.

I chose it because of other threads like these asking similar questions.

The short of what I read was...

The wipe on finishes are super easy and work well without much waste.

The gloss seals better than satin, but you can seal with coats of gloss and do a couple satin on top.

The water based stuff though easier to clean up and less smell also isn't as tough of a finish and tends to target burn more.

That being said I personally haven't tried the water based, but as of now using the poly wipe on I feel absolutely no need to.

[moththerlode]

Zradix , wonder how the wipe on would work dipping , maybe even wipe after dipping, just thinking out loud here

[Zradix]

Originally posted by moththerlode:
Zradix , wonder how the wipe on would work dipping , maybe even wipe after dipping, just thinking out loud here

I'm sure you could but it would sorta negate some of the benefits of the stuff.

I found that pouring a little in a small bowl..actually the bottom to a plastic 8oz bottle and dipping a folded (double layer) 2-3" squarish piece of bounty paper towel works good.

Just dip and wipe and repeat.


If the towel starts to fray a bit tear off and fold a new piece. let dry for 1/2hr to 2 hours depending on how you dry...I put my drying stand ( 2x4 with some shallow holes drilled in it) in front of a space heater if I want to hurry things. BTW don't let it get too hot or the stuff will bubble slightly where it was filling pores.

Do a quick rub with 0000 steel wool between coats.

Maybe dipping is easier as I haven't tried it but golly this seems pretty fool proof...I'm proof of that!    

The smell is welcome in my house as the Wife likes me smelling of cut wood and finish..what can I say I'm a lucky guy!    

[Zradix]

Originally posted by hawk22:
What's the difference between the poly and the poly crylic?

The acrylics generally stay clear and don't yellow like a poly urethane.

the acrylics tend to hide brush strokes a bit better.

the acrylics can be deceiving when it comes time to sand. They'll be dry on the surface to the touch but underneath they'll be uncured. You'll start to sand an then the stuff rolls up like rubber cement.

There are other chemical diffs too but this seems to be what people are most concerned with.

[magnus]

If you get scuffs when sanding between coats then you are sanding way too much. You only need to lightly sand. Removing any air bubbles and knocking off any dust that  got on the shaft during dry time. If you wait a good 24 hours after the final coat then you shouldn't get any scuffing at all. Just toning down the shine on hunting arrows. Remember the dry times are for certain temps. If you have any change I temp over night and such you may need more time. No such thing as waiting too long.

[USAFdad]

I just made up my first set of cedar's. I used minwax stain and rubbed it on. Then used water based polycrylic by rubbing on three coats. Wiped fletching area with acetone, glued feathers on with fletch-tite. I roughed up the tapers with scotch brite before gluing. So far they haven't shed any parts during use even when skipping them across the desert.

[b44mag]

just picked up some poly wipe clear gloss
i rit dyed the poc shafts last night.
6 coats sunshine orange looks like easton's autum orange.
maybe a lil darker.