figuring draw length

[ordcorpdw]

Ok I did a search but didn't really find the answer I was looking for. When I figured my draw length I measured from the center of my chest to the tips of my middle fingers. I didn't reach to do it just a comfortable non stretch. Came to 26". Should I have stretched and reached further? I read the method of using a clothes pin and shaft but that would only give me my draw length for a specific bow? Thoughts? Thanks, Dave

[magnus]

Your draw length is your draw length. Doesn't matter what bow. If you can draw a 30# bow to 28" at your consistent anchor point then your draw is 28". If you can only draw a heavier bow to 26" then that bow is too heavy for you right now. It's either stacking due to design or just not the right bow for you. With proper form and release. Your draw length should not change. Please note my numbers are just examples.

[Stumpkiller]

I come out a lot shorter than my actual draw length when I try that rule of thumb.  The best method is to draw a full-length arrow with an inch scale on it and have someone watch the arrow as you draw and tell you what the scale is at the front of your riser.  Another method is to clip a clothespin on a full-length shaft and draw it.  The pin stays where it meets the riser.  Then add 3/4" to 1" and that is your BOP (back of point) arrow length.  Remember to add 3/4" for a head taper if using wood shafts.

[Stumpkiller]

PS - AMO draw length is determined to be 1-3/4" forward of the deepest part of the grip.  So it is dependant on the bow.  Your draw length is cradle of bow-hand thumb joint to your anchor point.  Does not change with the bow, but you'll get in trouble if you don't add length for point clearance - especially broadheads.

[magnus]

Charlie is right. I was referring to the clothes pin method as well. The marked arrow shaft with inches is thd best route IMO. Once you make one just keep it for use with others. They're easy to make.

[ordcorpdw]

Thanks guys. Stumpkiller, if using wood shafts is that 3/4" added on for the taper on top of the added 3/4"-1" for Back of point? Seems just adding an inch either way would give me plenty of room. Sorry, kinda new to the whole thing.

[magnus]

Arrow length is measured from the v of the nock to the back of the point. It needs to be longer than your draw length. You'll need a 1/4" taper for you nock and 3/4"-1" for your point. Start with you nock taper put a nock on then measure from the v to the back of the point then add 3/4" for your point taper.Thise is only necessary if you are making your own wood arrows. If you are buying them you just need to  state you arrow length. So you add a 1/2" or longer so when you draw thd bow the head is not touching your fingers

[LKH]

To find out your true draw length, mark distinct, easy to see lines on an arrow or two.  Shoot that arrow over a period of times with your buddy watching from the side.

You will then get your true, functional draw length.  Not the one where you are concentrating more on your draw length than the actual shot.

[7 Lakes]

Make sure the arrow is under your eye.  Using a light weight bow that you can comfortably pull 32" to measure is wrong.  Your draw length is whatever it takes to put the arrow under your eye.  Then use the AMO method or back of the bow method.  Just make sure your bowyer knows which you want.

[Stumpkiller]

Originally posted by ordcorpdw:
Thanks guys. Stumpkiller, if using wood shafts is that 3/4" added on for the taper on top of the added 3/4"-1" for Back of point? Seems just adding an inch either way would give me plenty of room. Sorry, kinda new to the whole thing.

What Magnus said.  The 3/4" for the point taper is in addition to.  You'll occasionally see shafts listed as "BOP".  That's "Back of Point" - the distance from the front taper shoulder to the valley in the nock.

[Bjorn]

I am a fan of the clothes peg method.

[GRINCH]

whats the clothes peg method

[Stumpkiller]

You clip a clothespin on a full-length shaft and draw it back.  The clothes pin hangs up on the riser.  Let down carefully and measure from the bottom of the nock valley to where the clothespin stopped.  That takes you to the edge of the riser.  Add 3/4" to 1" and that's where the back of your point/broadhead should be.  

I only add 1/2", but that is with a single-blade broad head always aligned horizontal.

[GRINCH]

Thanks for the info

[bigbadjon]

The bow can make a difference to your draw length depending on the size of the riser. My draw is an inch longer shooting my Gamemaster Jet than it is with my Great Northern Ghost. Technically I am drawing the same distance but the arrows need to be an inch longer.

[Bowwild]

What follows will be more than some folks want to know or can tolerate.

Far more important than the length of arrow plus clearance is you physically coming to full-draw. In my experience, many compound shooters are overdrawn and many recurve/longbow shooters are underdrawn.

No matter the bow:
1. The bow arm should be straight but unlocked at full draw.

2. Hook the string with your fingers (deep hook into the first joint of the fingers rather than finger tips. The back of your drawing hand should be flat and relaxed. If the string is on your finger tips, like some of us were taught decades ago, the back of the hand will be bowed and tense.  

3. Draw the bow until you come to a comfortable anchor. For most folks this is the tip of the finger (index if 3 under, middle if shooting split finger) in the corner of the mouth with the last knuckle of the draw thumb just behind the jawline. A thumb behind the neck adds tension to the bowhand, wrist and arm. This prevents a properly relaxed drawing arm.

4. Most important: Using your back muscle (drawing side) the elbow should be drawn back to the point where the point of the elbow is 1/2-1" in front of an imaginary line drawn from the bowhand, through the anchor and past the point of the elbow. If the elbow is in line or behind (towards your back) you are overdrawn. If the elbow is too far in front of this line you are overdrawn.  Both conditions prevent back motion from executing the shot. Shot anticipation and Target Panic follows.

Once you've brought your form into correct draw, now you're ready to measure your draw length.

When at full draw make a mark on the arrow that is 1.75" forward (towards the arrow point) from the pivot point of the bow's grip. Often this is the very back edge of the bow shelf, but not always. On my Robertson Fatal Styk, with a narrow riser, this 1.75" spot is behond the back of the bow.

Once you've marked the arrow measure from the bottom of the nock groove to this point. That's your draw length.  The correct arrow length will include some extra length out front for broadhead clearance. Tuning may also require more or less arrow shaft beyond the back of the bow.