Need help with answers pertaining to integrity and design of T/D LB riser

[Kevin Breaux]

Bow planed...Initial design from Bingham's, T/D longbow 50#@28" at 64", 17"riser.


I am in the design phase of a T/D longbow. I used the initial pattern from Bingham's, but I'd am trying my hand at dressing up the riser and limbs. The plan is to use cocobolo dyamond wood as the dominate wood in the riser and I'd like to dress it up with another wood. I have Texas ebony, osage, black walnut, zebrawood and a few other deep colors. The question I need answers for most likely will come from your experience with gluing up different woods to make a riser. For instance, the zebra wood and black walnut I have on hand is 3/4" thick. I have URAC and smooth-on for the glue up, but unsure if the design I am planning is to much for the integrity of the riser.  

One question is... Will a wood (any wood) that has been glued together from two 3/4" boards to make the 1 1/2" thickness stand up when drilled for the wood screw that holds the limb to the riser? I would be splitting the glue line with the limb retaining screw. But I will also have the cocobolo very closely behind and would also be a holding factor for the screw.

Second question...is the small riser like this to thin for these many cuts?


To clear things up a but, the design I would like to complete is liking to the snakebit bows of Blacktail, not the exact of that bow but similar. The bow will be a T/D LB 1 1/2" wide for the riser and 17" long. The plan is for three flared cuts, the first cut is towards the back of the riser is 3/8" thick and flares into the wedges in the limbs, the second is a opposing mirror flare to the belly, 3/8" thick in the center and flows towards the belly of the riser. The third cut is a hard radius on the handle, which flows 3/4 the way up through the 3" window and shelf and down below the center of the handle by 3 1/4" for a total distance of 6 1/2".

I am not the best word smith for describing what I am thinking and I know this is most confusing, but I do appreciate your time in trying, thanks LOL.    

                                                                                                            Kevin

[Buemaker]

To the first question. A glueline is as strong or stronger than wood itself if done properly.
I have done tests many times, gluing up two wood pieces offset to each other so one of the pieces can be clamped in a vice and the other smacked with a large hammer.It is seldom that it comes apart in the glueline, usually the wood itself breaks. I usually do that if I try out a new brand of glue or if I think the glue is old, just to check.  Bue--.

[Kevin Breaux]

Bue, that does calm some nerves, thanks.


(USING two 3/4" boards glued together with URAC to make a 1 1/2" T/D riser)
Has anyone drilled the glue line on a take down riser, inserted and glued in the limb retaining screw and used that riser with limbs rated for 60#+ ?